Tommy Banks became a culinary force to be reckoned with in 2013 when, aged 24, he retained his family restaurant The Black Swan’s Michelin star (earned in 2012). He had taken over as head chef that year, despite having no formal training. Since then, Banks has opened Roots in York – which was awarded a Michelin star in 2021 – and a premium food home delivery service, Made in Oldstead. Most recently he co-founded Jeopardy Hospitality, whose sole aim is to salvage pubs with rooms in the north, with The General Tarleton in Ferrensby the group’s first success story.
A proud born-and-bred Yorkshireman, Banks shares with us his favourite local hotspots – from family-friendly pizza joints to independent bakeries and, of course, pubs.
I’ve spent my whole life in North Yorkshire, and I honestly think it’s one of the most special places in the world. I grew up in Oldstead, a tiny village on the edge of the North York Moors. What I love about North Yorkshire is how it changes from one mile to the next. The landscape shapes everything we do, the food we grow, the way we cook, even how we think about hospitality. The Moors give you rugged, windswept farmland, the Dales have this incredible richness and calm, and then there’s the coastline, which brings its own rhythm.
It’s also home to some amazing towns and cities. York has become one of the UK’s most exciting food destinations, a proper mix of heritage and innovation. And more recently, I’ve come to Harrogate with my new pub business, Jeopardy Hospitality. It’s a spa town that’s always had its own character and charm, and it’s been brilliant to bring The General Tarleton into that story; a place that’s had its ups and downs over the years, but one we’re proud to be writing a new chapter for.
North Yorkshire is Britain’s biggest county, so it’s fair to say we have our fair share of amazing places to eat. With a young family, pizza is always an easy win. My go-tos are Pizza Social in Harrogate, where Will makes some of the best around. He actually did the pizzas for our wedding reception a few years back. The Nduja Love Me with pumpkin, fior di latte, nduja, blue cheese and honey is hard to beat. Cresci in York is another favourite, a brilliant city spot that nails those proper, unfussy flavours every time, and does a banging off-menu tiramisu.
We’re also spoiled for choice when it comes to brilliant cafés and bakeries. I spend a lot of my free time around York, and Robinsons Café on Bishopthorpe Road is always a winner – the queue outside is proof. The food’s always fresh, seasonal and generous, and it gets brunch just right. Down the road is the brilliant independent bakery Flori, doing incredible pastries and breads with a proper local following.
If you’re in the city centre, make time for Heppni, run by India Luck. Her plum bakewell bear claw is worth travelling for. We also love Mannion & Co in Helmsley, and Haxby Bakehouse, which turns out the kind of bread that makes any meal better.
When I head further afield, especially to the coast, Sandsend is usually our spot. It’s such a beautiful stretch, and a stop at Mary’s Sandwich Shop is a total no-brainer. It’s the sort of place that keeps things simple but always has a great vibe. Plus, the sandwiches and burgers on offer are always packed full of flavour.
Back inland, Florian Poirot in Malton is well worth a detour. He’s a master pâtissier, and his macarons are something I’ve been buying for years as little gifts for loved ones, and just because.
There are so many pubs I love, but two really stand out for me at the moment. The first is The Star Inn at Harome. Andrew Pern opened it as a gastropub back in 1996, and all these years later it’s still such a special meal. The food, the atmosphere, the sense of history; it’s everything a proper Yorkshire pub should be.
The other is The Crathorne Arms, which I revisited recently for the first time in ages for lunch with friends. Eugene McCoy is an industry legend around here, one of the OGs of good pubs and restaurants in the region. He sat down with us for a long chat; he’s got some brilliant stories to tell. The kind that remind you exactly why we love this industry, and why I care so much about keeping pubs alive.
For more on Tommy’s restaurants and culinary ventures, see tommybanks.co.uk
Gemma Billington is a writer and editor who splits her time between Kent and London
