La collegiata di Sant'Orso vista dal castello

Guide to: the Loire Valley, France

Majestic castles, picture-perfect villages, mouthwatering food and epic landscapes – it’s all right here in the heart of France, along Europe’s last wild river

Stay

Hotels here aren’t your typical cookie-cutter city chains. Instead, you get a charming blend of grand historic castles and countryside inns with heaps of personality.

Les Hauts de Loire

If you’re after a peaceful, luxurious countryside getaway, Les Hauts de Loire is just the ticket. Think wooden beams, white shutters and patterned wallpaper, all surrounded by serene woodland. There’s a peaceful outdoor pool here, and a spa for unwinding after a day of exploring.

Over in Orléans, the Empreinte Hotel sits right on the riverbank. It’s cosy and creative, rooms are havens of street art – and you’ll also spot some amazing graffiti in the courtyard. There’s a small spa on site, too.

Hôtel de la Cité Royale

In the historic town of Loches, Hôtel de la Cité Royale blends old-world charm with modern touches. Here, you’ll find a large terrace perfect for taking in the town views, plus a swimming pool and spa that make you feel like you’ve discovered the city’s best-kept secret. The rooms are spacious – ask for one with a balcony to get that early-morning, “looking out over the rooftops” vibe.

Hôtel du Cygne in Tours is a treasure of a boutique hotel; a stylish, peaceful spot with spiral staircases and cosy library corners. The vibe is warm and welcoming, and breakfast is simple but fresh – perfect for setting you up for a day exploring the city. We loved Room 1 in the courtyard: a large, quiet residence with plenty of space and walk-in showers.

Hôtel du Cygne

Eat

Hidden on a residential side street, rustic DorDinAire in Auberge is run by Valérie and her chef husband Thierry, and it’s all about fresh, organic, local produce – much from their own garden or nearby farms. The menu changes daily; we feasted on melt-in-your-mouth courgettes, aubergines, tomatoes and goat’s cheese, followed by duck with green beans and homemade blackberry pepper. Don’t miss dessert: crêpes filled with Chantilly cream and raspberry sauce. Dinner here is by reservation only, and they have just three rooms upstairs for overnight stays, making it all the more special.

Le Clos aux Roses is a super-cute spot in the floral village of Chédigny, famous for its annual rose festival. You’ll find yourself sitting under wisteria, the scent of flowers wafting around as you enjoy your meal. The husband-and-wife team run a tight, friendly ship and the menu’s affordable and delightful. Try the broad bean and pea mousse with goat’s cheese, followed by a bright, refreshing black rice salad laced with tomato salsa. Dessert is a showstopper too: rose sorbet with cherries and chocolate mousse. 

DorDinAire

Right across from Chambord Castle, Relais de Chambord serves up classic French dishes in a bright, airy room decked out in creams and florals. The fresh pea and mint soup is cool and refreshing on a warm day, and the tarte tatin is a must-try.

Also: try a food tour in (the appropriately named) Tours – the Valley’s fun, foodie district. You’ll be in the hands of two charming Irish sisters as you spend two hours hopping between local wine spots and cheese shops to find the region’s best flavours. 

Food Tour In Tour

And the Loire wouldn’t be complete without its legendary ‘guinguettes’ – open-air riverside cafés that come alive in summer. Guinguette de Tours is one of the liveliest, with seasonal, simple food, live music and dancing under the stars. The food is great, too: peppers sprinkled with feta and green salads with aubergine purée. 

Drink

What would the Loire Valley be without its wine? The region has an impressive 350+ wine cellars – family-run operations, offering everything from crisp, refreshing whites to elegant reds and delicate sparklers.

Wine tastings are easy to find and wonderfully varied: descend deep into a château cellar or follow the winding roads to the smaller countryside wineries. Walk through lush vineyards to explore ancient wine caves – all while learning insider secrets about the region’s diverse terroirs. And if wine isn’t your thing, many tours also offer local grape juice alternatives. 

But if it’s a bar you’re after, start your evening in Tours’ Place Plumereau – the city’s medieval square, which is packed with them. A nearby standout is Le Tournesol, at 13 bis Place Châteauneuf, beloved for its inventive cocktails. 

If you prefer beer, Le Gambrinus is a spacious beer hall with a welcoming crowd and a broad selection of brews. For a more relaxed vibe, La P’tite Maiz’ is a laid-back spot perfect for casual catchups. Meanwhile, Bar the Hammock pairs live music with comfy seating, ideal after a day’s sightseeing.

Shop

The Loire Valley’s shopping scene is all about local charm and artisan craftsmanship. Wander through the delightful boutiques and bustling markets in Amboise to find vintage treasures.

Tours has several buzzing shopping spots, but the markets at Place des Halles and Place Velpeau are definite highlights. From Tuesday to Sunday, you’ll find stalls filled with fresh vegetables, baked goods, flowers and regional specialties – try the rillettes and goat cheeses. Plus, the Centre de Création Contemporaine Olivier Debré is a treat for art lovers.

Do

For lovers of history and design, the Hôtel Goüin in Tours is a must. This elegant venue celebrates the art of paper and wallpaper originally created for grand castles and stately homes – a real treat for art and interiors buffs, and anyone curious about the craftsmanship. 

Hôtel Goüin

Elsewhere, try a guided stroll through Orléans’ buzzing street art scene – a charming, whimsical way to see Orléans through the eyes of its boldest local artists. It starts at the impressive Sainte-Croix Cathedral and, en route, you’ll spot the city’s iconic yellow cats by M Chat – distinctive mosaics by Tag Lady marked with her signature white squares – and thousands of tiny pixelated “Space Invader” aliens sprinkled throughout town. 

Château de Loches

Hop aboard a traditional wooden boat for a gentle cruise down the Loire, a Unesco World Heritage site for 25 years. As you drift along at a leisurely pace, you’ll take in stunning views of lush riverbanks and castles in the distance, and stop at shaded river islets to enjoy a picnic featuring local treats: think creamy goat’s cheese, tender pulled pork and regional wines or fresh juices.

La Roche Posay

Foodies are spoiled for choice in the Loire. Martin-Pouret is the region’s last traditional vinegar-maker, with a heritage dating back to 1797. Its new visitor centre, opened in 2024 in Boigny-sur-Bionne near Orléans, offers tours that reveal the slow, barrel-aged vinegar process known as the Orléans method. Tastings include signature mustards, low-sugar and smoked ketchups, mayonnaise and fig-infused chutneys.

Into cheese? From April to September at sheep farm La Ferme du Lochois, cheesemonger Geoffrey guides you through the traditional process. The farm’s history spans generations of women, from grandmother to mother to daughter. Milking happens twice daily from March to September, followed by a careful 72-hour curdling and draining period. The cheese then ages for about 10 days, developing a range of flavours, including a local thyme-infused variety. The experience finishes with Geoffrey’s unique cheese-and-wine (or grape juice) tasting.

The Loire Valley is also a treasure trove of stunning castles. Château de Meung sur Loire, known as the “castle with two faces” for its mix of medieval and pink 18th-century facades, has interactive dragon-themed trails featuring moving statues, trampolines, a mini-farm and a robot dragon’s lair. Also make sure you see Château de Chambord, famed for its grand towers and Leonardo da Vinci’s iconic double-helix staircase.

The Presbytery garden of Chédigny

And if horticulture is your thing, visit Chaumont sur Loire, renowned for its vast gardens and the 2025 international garden festival featuring whimsical floral art, a Pinocchio garden, fairy pond with misty waterfalls and a stunning chapel. Finally, Château Royal d’Amboise, where Da Vinci once lived, has carefully restored gardens, stunning stained-glass chapel and alfresco breakfast served by a quaint food truck.

Château Royal d’Amboise

Behiye Hassan is the managing editor of Meet The Leader. She also writes for The Luxury Spa Edit and specialises in small business, entrepreneurs, luxury and wellbeing.

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