As a seasoned travel journalist, I’m not left in awe by many places. But AlUla captivated me. I felt a genuine connection to nature on an almost spiritual level: the sheer magnitude of its deep, almost skeletal canyon landscape; its imposing hewn-rock tombs; elaborate structures carved into the sandstone cliffs; and plateaus once wandered by nomadic hunter-gatherers more than 200,000 years ago.
It’s a place that encourages stillness, introspection and an unspoken dialogue between land and soul. In AlUla, beauty is not just seen; it is felt, absorbed and carried with you long after the desert dust has been swept from your boots. It simply blew me away.
Stay
To truly experience life like a local, check into Dar Tantora The House Hotel on the doorstep of AlJadidah Arts District. It’s nothing short of a living museum piece, fusing traditional Arabian village life with modern luxury to create split-level dars (rooms). It’s a showpiece best appreciated from above, where it resembles an intricate patchwork quilt of interconnected quadrilaterals, like an Arabic take on Cubism; the stunning rooftop infinity pool provides an idyllic viewing platform.
Meanwhile to the east, overlooked on all sides by gigantic, soaring canyons, is Shaden Resort. The word immense doesn’t do it justice. It’s like stepping into the cinematic universe of Star Wars: vast desert expanses, where you half-expect a light-sabre-wielding Yoda to emerge from a wadi, while from above the complex resembles an intergalactic space station.
Just 30 minutes’ drive north from here is perhaps my favourite stay of the lot, Our HabitasAlUla. Its majestic, detached Canyon Villas spread across the desert like an S-shaped underground map, with villas as the station stops, and it attracts quite a hipster crowd. Outdoor spaces feature private deck lounges with a mix of Cane-line and Talenti furniture and some seriously hardcore telescopes – after all, AlUla is one of the world’s best places for stargazing. For immersive glamping, head next door to CaravanAlUla by Our Habitas, where processions of luxury Airstream caravans dot the landscape.
Eat Early
Pink Camel pastry boutique overlooks lush farmlands, and offers a light-bite menu full of inspiring dishes using the freshest fruits and vegetables found in AlUla. Think spicy labneh zaartar poached eggs, citrusy pasta, pulled lamb brioche sandwiches and delectable freshly baked pastries.
You could equally indulge in a snack from the collection of foodtrucks lined up outside the reception of Caravan AlUla by Our Habitas – choose between the delights within the pink holographic ice-cream van, the pizza truck or the fab purveyor of incredible juices.
Villa Fayrouz is one of the pioneers of Lebanese food in the heart of the Old Town. It’s a great vantage point for watching the world go by, right on the main drag. Tuck into tender lamb cutlets, marinated shish taouk and a selection of flavourful kebabs, all grilled to perfection on its signature charcoal BBQ, alongside a wide range of hot and cold mezze.
Eat Late
There’s a big emphasis on something foodie-loving locals call “oasis-to-fork” dining. This is best exemplified at Tawlat Fayza. Rooftop views overlook the Palm Oasis, where guests sit at communal tables and devour shared platters: fresh salads (spinach, quinoa and Greek orzo), mixed grills and fragrant dishes such as molokhia with chicken and rice. The handmade pumpkin ravioli in sage butter sauce is to die for, too.
For food on the hoof,Salt at Elephant Rock does tasty Western-style fare with its foodtruck-inspired casual menu complete with spectacular view. Round it all off with fragrant, flavoured coffee from the Key Café. For the chicest dining in town, head to Somewhere, where tables lounge around the swimming pool surrounded by towering palms. The beetroot blended with chickpea hummus here is worth the trip alone.
Drink
While alcohol is forbidden in AlUla, the availability of fresh juices more than compensates, alongside fresh elixirs and smoothies. There are several non-alcoholic versions of popular beers, with malt-flavoured Moussy being one of the standouts.
At Jazean, coffee fiends can indulge in the legacy of authentic Saudi coffee and sip on the finest Arabica bean brews carefully sourced from the abundant mountains of southern Saudi Arabia. You may have to pay 10 riyals (about £1.95) to enter, but coffee and cake at Shalal Cafe, accessible through a slot canyon’s narrow opening, is a real hidden gem in a stunning spot. Alternatively, grab a vitamin-rich bottle of chilled camel milk from Noug and drink it through the straw as you stroll back to your hotel.
Shop
The best retail to be had is in and around the Old Town. Rowdy Shop houses an eye-catching AlUla-themed collection of oversized tees and hoodies which fashionistas will love, while Qormuz is known for its reinterpretations of the jubba (a traditional Saudi garment worn by men), which blend heritage with contemporary design.
The Old Town Gift Shop (don’t let the name put you off) sells an incredibly stylish assortment of merch, peddling beige hoodies, baseball caps, palm-emblazoned sweats, coffee-table books and more (there’s one in the departure lounge at the airport, too, for last-minute gifts). Pick up a striking AlUla FC camouflage shirt at the club shop in the Old Town – the club currently competes in the Saudi First Division, one league shy of the Saudi Pro League, but it has lofty ambitions.
Do
Set your alarm early and take to the skies in a hot-air balloon at first light, soaring 1,200m high for a bird’s-eye view of the UNESCO World Heritage landscape below. Don’t miss the archaeological masterpiece of Hegra (Mada’in Salih) or the region’s postcard image, Tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza, rising from the desert sand like a giant rock-chiselled tome. The slot canyons, painted flaming scarlet by oxidising iron, are also unmissable. Then, get up close and personal to the sites you’ve seen from above on a Hegra Tour,aboard safari-style open-top 4x4s.
Sunset is the perfect time to take in AlUla’s most iconic rock formation, the stunning sandstone monolith that is Elephant Rock. And while it’s not what you’d expect to see in the middle of a desert, Maraya,the largest mirrored building in the world,blends seamlessly into the surrounding Ashar Valley.
And don’t leave without experiencing an unrivalled, tutored by torchlight, stargazing sesh, under the desert sky at Our Habitas AlUla. I not only left truly inspired, but thoroughly revitalised.
Lee Osborne is a menswear consultant and creative director of Secret Trips
