You needn’t be Martin Sheen at the start of Apocalypse Now – holed-up in a sketchy hotel room with only a revolver, a smashed mirror and an empty bottle of Vietnamese whisky for company – to experience Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon’s formal name). Once war-torn and for years haunted by ghosts of its traumatised past, today Vietnam’s largest city ranks among the hippest of holiday destinations.
Flying into Ho Chi Minh City you’re initially greeted by a sprawling cityscape below; the Mekong River spread out like an emerald quilt – as you land, the energy is palpable. The tropical heat hits you like a furnace as you step off the plane and, before long, your senses are overwhelmed by the sounds of honking and chatter, as you dodge the ubiquitous swarming mopeds in this buzzing, caffeinated city.
Just an initial casual stroll reveals countless treasures, from the Beaux Arts Saigon Opera House to the exotic 17th-century Bến Thành Market and the Central Post Office. But history tours aside, this is also a dynamic metropolis filled with sassy nightclubs, classy restaurants and luxurious hotels that rival the best of Bangkok or Singapore.
Chief among these is our own hotel for a couple of nights, the outrageous The Reverie Saigon. Located at 22-36 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, this Italian-themed hotel and spa, housed within a 39-storey glass high-rise, offers gloriously extravagant luxury: described as a blend of Versailles, Vegas and Versace.
The purple ostrich-skin sofa in the lobby offers a hint of the opulence that lies ahead – massive rooms and suites with crystal chandeliers, Philippe Starck furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows boasting jaw-dropping riverside views.
Guests have their pick of five restaurants, including four European options led by a Brazil-born head chef, and Long Trieu (The Royal Pavilion) for Cantonese cuisine. While the hotel’s luxurious spa, which features six treatment rooms, open-air Jacuzzis, and the award-winning Serenity Deep Tissue massage. Returning to our king-sized beds and marble bathtubs, we can only wonder what the Viet Cong, fighting and dying furiously for Communism, would make of this luxurious transformation.
While you’re here, it’s also worth taking advantage of one of numerous river cruise companies traversing the Mekong Delta, the lifeblood of Southeast Asia. There are various options, from modern stylish cruises such as the Mekong Eyes Explorer, with 16 rooms, including four upper-deck suites with private balconies, and a menu offering Vietnamese and Western cuisine. Or more intimate affairs, such as the Dragon Eyes Cruise, featuring just two private cabins, perfect for couples, families or friends. Whichever you choose, you’ll soon find yourself drifting along in perfect bliss, as lush green landscapes unfold on either side of you, along with rice paddies, floating markets and quaint fishing villages. Occasionally a Buddhist temple peeks out from the greenery, its golden spires catching the sunlight. And the air is filled with the scents of tropical flowers and the sounds of bird calls. Each bend of the river seems to reveal something new and mesmerising.
Our own destination is Phú Quốc, a stunning, tear-shaped island at the southern tip of Vietnam (ferry or quick flight will get you there from the mainland), with white sandy beaches, forest-covered hills, sparkling waterfalls – and beach huts offering massages for just £3. In other words: paradise.
We choose to stay at La Veranda Resort, with 74 serene, airy rooms and a fantastic spa. While activities such as snorkelling, night fishing and jungle trails are available, we opt to stay put, venturing next door to Rory’s Beach Bar in the evening. There, we lounge in deckchairs around a nightly bonfire built by Rory, a former Sydney tennis coach; savouring salt and pepper squid alongside local Saigon beer while watching the sun dip below the horizon and the fishermen head out for another night’s work.
There’s an old Vietnamese proverb: Một ngày đi du lịch sẽ mang theo một giỏ đầy học hỏi, which translate as ‘A day of travel brings with it a basket full of learning.’ Essentially, it means that you must leave your comfort zone to learn new and unique things. A trip to Vietnam can be exactly the learning curve we’re looking for.
Lysanne Currie is editor-in-chief of Meet the Leader. She also writes for Robb Report, Diplomat, Guardian, Influence, Tempus and Investor
