It wasn’t that long ago that the only people who went on holiday to Colombia were hoodlums on the run. No more. These days, the South American nation is the continent’s hottest destination. Canny travellers head to the still relatively undiscovered, not-yet-jaded-by-tourists country that hits all the high notes: dense biodiverse rainforest, culture-packed cities and wild, white sand islands. To get a taste of everything that the place has to offer, follow our epic itinerary which takes you from the leftfield art galleries of downtown Bogotá to the colonial architecture and quaint cobblestone streets of the Colombian Riviera via the glories of the rainforest.
Days 1-3 Bogotá
Colombia’s capital is a city reborn; it is an arts and culture hub, all brilliant boutiques, rooftop bars and excellent restaurants. By day, wander the historic old centre, La Candelaria, with stops at the Botero Museum and Mambo, Bogota’s museum of modern art. After that, head to Barrio San Felipe, where a contemporary art scene is taking off in the once gritty, residential neighbourhood. Strolling shoppers should visit pretty Calle de los Anticuarios, with its cluster of nice stores including Artesanias de Colombia and St. Dom, and everyone should stop in at Bar Enano, a small chic bar hidden in the back of the restaurant El Bandido. Finish the day at Bogotá institution Pajares Salinas, an old-school Spanish restaurant or head to Mesa Franca, a Colombian take on farm-to-table cuisine with innovative cocktails.
Rolos, as the residents of Bogotá are known, love to spend their weekends taking a long drive into the countryside to have lunch at places like Oriente, a rustic farm-to-table restaurant on the banks of Lake Guatavita. Or if bucolic countryside and a quiet meal isn’t what you have in mind, follow the crowds to the original Andrés Carne de Res located in the Bogotá suburb of Chia. A quintessential Bogotá experience, equal parts Cirque du Soleil, tchotchke-filled Colombian culinary smorgasbord and dance club, this restaurant originated as a one-room roadside BBQ that sprawled out, architectural planning be damned, in every direction. Start early and stay late. Pace yourself for a marathon day of drinking, eating and celebrating birthdays, even if not yours. It is solidly multi-generational in a way the UK and the US cannot seem to master, with plenty to keep smaller kids busy.
Days 4-6 Medellín
If any one city encapsulates Colombia’s recent renaissance, it’s Medellín and its once infamous barrio Comuna 13 – a vast shantytown that was once home to narcos and Farc (revolutionary armed forces). After the peace talks between the government and the guerrillas broke down, the sprawling neighbourhood was invaded by government troops, killing at least 18 people. From this tragedy the shantytown has undergone an incredible transformation. The city’s youth have poured their energy into DJing, rap, breakdancing and art. The Graffiti tour can be arranged by your hotel or the illusive “El Perro”, who used to do tours himself and now trains locals. After you’re done exploring Comuna 13, be sure to take the metro and cable car to Parque Arví for magnificent views of the city from the rainforest. Coffee is an essential part of Medellín life – for one of the best, head to Café le Gris, a retro French-style café, which opened in 1978 and the menu has not changed since then. At night, go to Mamba Negra for incredible views of the city, or for drinks and vinyl music head to Siete Pulgadas. Stay at the Click Clack for its cool location and design and use Medellín as a base to make an overnight trip to Guatapé and climb the 708 steps to the top of Piedra del Peñol with its astonishing views. Stay in Bosko’s amazing glamping tents: bosko.com.co
Day 7-9: Morromico, Chocó
For an astonishing insight into Colombia’s incredible biodiversity, head to Playa Morromico on the Gulf of Tribugá in the Chocó region of Western Colombia (on the Pacific Ocean side). The pristine black volcanic sand beach is surrounded by tropical jungles, crystal clear waterfalls, wild rainforests and indigenous Afro-Colombian villages. To get there, you fly from Medellín to Nuquí, where you’ll be met by a boat which will take you to Morromico Lodge, a glorious retreat where you can snorkel the coral reefs, hike through the rainforest, go birding or go humpback-whale watching in the summer.
Day 10-13: Cartagena
The Caribbean coastal city of Cartagena de Indias is a city of incredible colonial architecture, colourful façades and quaint cobblestone streets. By day, explore the Walled City where bougainvillea climbs the walls and everything is steeped in history, from the Cathedral of Cartagena, one of the oldest episcopal sees in the Americas, to the Palace of the Inquisition, completed in 1770. And bring your credit card. Cartagena is a shopper’s paradise. At night, head to the Getsemani neighbourhood, where live music fills the air at the Havana Club. Eat at Celele, a seafood restaurant voted top 50 in Latin America in 2022. Or, for drinks at sunset, head to Café del Mar, an open-air terrace atop the westernmost point of the old wall, with its spectacular views of the ocean and the old city.
Stay at Hotel Casa San Agustín, a gorgeous, colonial boutique hotel with pool, spa, restaurant and day trips to the hotel’s private beach on the island of Barú. And while you’re there, be sure to visit Tierra Bomba for a day trip or overnighter at either Portia Hart’s Blue Apple (where she’ll be able to set you up on a magical tour of the island on the back of a horse) or the Catherine Moggio-designed Makani.
