Depending on where you are in the world, the word “Sabi” has different meanings. In Japan, it roughly translates to an appreciation for fading beauty. In South Africa, it means the exact opposite. Here, Sabi is derived from “tsave”, meaning “danger” in the Tsonga language, due to the large number of fearsome crocs and hungry hippos lurking in the Sabie River (aka “the River of Fear”).
So, it’s somewhat ironic that the name of one of the most beautiful private game reserves on the planet – a breathtaking testament to the harmonious coexistence of luxury and nature –essentially translates to “Danger Danger!” Which, for lucky visitors, couldn’t be further from the truth. Because Sabi Sabi is heaven on Earth. Isak Dinesen, aka Karen Blixen, wrote in her memoir Out of Africa: ‘The views were immensely wide… everything that you saw made for greatness and freedom, and unequalled nobility.’ And it’s to this same vastness and beauty of Mother Nature that the family-owned Sabi Sabi has very much tipped its bush hat.
Sabi Sabi is located in the southwestern section of South Africa’s untamed Greater Kruger National Park – and you have a few options to get there: via an especially scenic drive from Johannesburg, by private plane (Sabi Sabi has its own airstrip), or, as we did, via a one-hour flight from OR Tambo International Airport (Johannesburg).
From here, a flight in a tiny, exhilarating aircraft whisked us to the heart of the Kruger National Park. Upon touching down at Skukuza Airport, we were instantly immersed in the wilderness – where Sabi Sabi truly began to weave its magic for us during a short but thrilling jeep ride through the South African bush.
We encountered animals almost immediately, staring in slack-jawed wonder as the impalas and zebra grazed gracefully in the golden light. About 40 minutes later, arriving at camp, we were greeted by the sight of giraffes casually sipping from a nearby watering hole. The adventure had well and truly begun.
Established in 1979, Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve is home to four distinct, multi-award-winning luxury lodges: Selati Camp, Bush Lodge, Little Bush Camp and Earth Lodge. Each offers a different slice of this vast wilderness, reflecting Sabi Sabi’s philosophy of embracing the past, present and future. Drawing inspiration directly from the surrounding landscape, these lodges (members of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World) feature locally sourced materials such as concrete, gravel and quartz, while wooden sculptures and furniture have been crafted from recycled flood debris by a local artisan. Yes, the impressively eco-minded Sabi Sabi is fully committed to conservation and sustainability through a natural habitat management plan – and its outreach drives are aimed at improving local literacy and promoting entrepreneurship through partnerships and community programmes with nearby villages and schools.
Our first stay was at Selati Camp, where we were all but transported to the golden age of African exploration. Situated along the tranquil Msuthlu riverbed (it overlooks a busy watering hole, so you’ll see plenty of action here), Selati draws its name from the old railway that passed through the Reserve. Inspired by fin-de-siècle South Africa, each of its seven suites is adorned with vintage railway and Age of Steam memorabilia. Mornings began with a refreshing dip in the pool followed by traditional safari cuisine, and evenings were spent marvelling at marmalade sunsets that gave way to the warm glow of lanterns.
Our neighbouring lodges, Bush Lodge and Little Bush Camp, are also worth checking out. The former, the original jewel in Sabi Sabi’s crown, offers 21 luxury suites, two expansive villas and a deluxe suite. Bush Lodge is particularly suited to families: its “EleFun” Centre is a space for children to explore and learn about the bush while parents unwind. It has two pools – including a dedicated kids’ pool – and expansive decks overlooking a waterhole where elephants often drink.
Elsewhere, clustered around the Msuthlu riverbed, the stylish, intimate Little Bush Camp is the ideal backdrop for a romantic getaway. With just six luxury suites, it offers unparalleled exclusivity and privacy, with spacious bedrooms that open onto private wooden decks with a heated spa bath from which to gaze at the starry, starry night.
After our initial stay at Selati, we transferred to Earth Lodge, an architectural marvel sculpted into a slope of the earth – and thus almost invisible, blending seamlessly into the surrounding bushveld like a Bond villain’s lair. During the 2020 pandemic, a curious pack of elephants sauntered into the Lodge for an unplanned inspection, leaving a trail of chaos, but that’s in the past: each of its 12 restored luxury suites offers expansive decks, private plunge pools (don’t be surprised if these entice some curious wildlife), and a king-sized bed positioned to offer breathtaking views of the bush. So at one with nature are you that a cheeky hyena may well come sniffing at your door at night.
The bathrooms are equally luxurious, with deep soaking tubs, indoor and outdoor showers and organic bath products. Speaking of splashing out, the Amber Villa is the ultimate family escape: discreetly positioned at the edge of the lodge, this two-bedroom private retreat can comfortably accommodate four to five guests, with a luxurious en-suite bathroom accompanying each bedroom. There’s even a private gym, with a treadmill, weights and spinning bike. The living room has a well-stocked bar, while outside, a shaded terrace lounge awaits you, complete with oversized couches, a sparkling plunge pool and hanging sling chairs.
Here, we had access to all of Earth Lodge’s facilities, including the main lodge, where we dined at the Day Bar: set within a shallow pool, it provided a unique spot for lunch as we rested our feet in cool water. The subterranean, candle-lit wine cellar also offered an intimate setting for dinner, stocked with an award-winning collection of South African wines and lesser-known boutique wines. Meanwhile, the Amani Spa was very much a sanctuary within a sanctuary, offering holistic treatments and massages using natural, organic products inspired by African botanicals. The spa also features a Zen meditation garden, an outdoor shower and a unique cleansing Pango cave.
As utterly luxurious as these lodges are, they’re really just convenient bases for the real star of the show: the wildlife. During our stay, we had our own private game vehicle, accompanied by a highly qualified ranger and local Shangaan tracker, and saw all the so-called “Big Five” – lions, rhinoceroses, elephants, buffalo and leopards – in their natural habitat. Whether it was a magnificent male lion during an evening game drive or an elephant shaking a tree to make the fruit cascade to the ground. And let’s not forget the 200 other indigenous species that live here – including 350 varieties of birds. Twitchers should consider this place a (bird of) paradise: five per cent of the planet’s bird species have been recorded in this part of South Africa.
At one point, we, er, spotted a mother leopard calling her cub for dinner in the form of an unlucky impala she’d bagged and left up a tree. Not so much “Mum’s gone to Iceland” as Mum’s left your supper in the bush. Incidentally, in case you bump into an inquisitive elephant on your midnight stroll to your human restaurant, a ranger will happily escort you back to the villa.
Leaving Sabi Sabi, we took away more than just memories of breathtaking wildlife encounters; we gained a renewed appreciation for the art of slowing down. This wasn’t just a holiday – it was a recalibration: a chance to rediscover a more mindful way of living amid the unscripted unpredictability and beauty of nature. As Dinesen wrote in Out of Africa, ‘You know you are truly alive when you’re living among lions.’
Lysanne Currie is editor-in-chief of Meet the Leader. She also writes for Robb Report, Diplomat, Guardian, Influence, Tempus and Investor
