Sitting 350km above the Arctic Circle, Tromsø is an exciting place to visit year-round – summers are graced with the midnight sun, while a period of polar night steps in between November and January. However, the Norwegian city’s meteorological intricacies and prime position for spotting the elusive Aurora Borealis are not its only draws. The city is also a hub of good food, outdoor pursuits and wonderful wildlife, and has a rich history of Arctic exploration. Here’s our guide to making the most of a trip to Tromsø.
Eat early
Cinnamon buns and waffles with lashings of brunost (Norway’s traditional sweet-savoury brown cheese) are breakfast staples here and are readily available across town. Risø Kaffebar is a buzzy spot, always jam-packed with tourists and students looking for a good flat white and an even better pastry. Another coffee place worth calling out is Tøllefsenhjørnet, a trendy café by day (we’ve been thinking about its wienerbrød nonstop) and a busy wine bar by night. It’s now in the hands of the original owner’s youngest granddaughter and attracts a cool crowd – and yes, they serve natural wine, too.
Eat late
You wouldn’t necessarily expect Tromsø to have fantastic restaurants: it’s hard to procure certain produce this far north, after all. But the small city has a handful of spots that wouldn’t feel out of place in London or Berlin. The first is Maskinverkstedet, a stylish industrial restaurant on the docks. The menu is an innovative take on north Norwegian cuisine: expect rich and creamy fish soups, reindeer stew and delicious seafood done really well.
The second place worth a visit is Helmersen, a wine bar-turned-deli on the high street that’s packed no matter the time of day, beginning with wholesome breakfast plates and good coffee. By night, the space transforms into a candlelit wine bar serving staples (yes, more reindeer stew) and the best charcuterie in town. Pair with the house red and get toasty.
For something more casual, Raketten, the 100-year-old hotdog stand (and Norway’s smallest bar) on the main drag, serves up reindeer and beef hotdogs topped with crispy onions, sauerkraut and sauces. While it’s become a bit of a viral spot thanks to TikTok, the hotdogs are surprisingly tasty and it’s a fun foodie experience.
Stay
While Tromsø is unexpectedly cosmopolitan when it comes to dining and culture, its hotels can feel a little corporate. Clarion Hotel The Edge is the city’s most sought-after stay thanks to panoramic views of the fjords and its Skybar, where you can enjoy a cocktail with a side of polar vistas. For something a little more design-led, Skaret by Vander is a great option. Its serviced apartments bridge the gap between hotel and Airbnb, and the interiors feel a little fresher than some of the other bigger chains in town.
If you’re searching for character or a more unique stay then you’ll want to consider an Airbnb outside of the city centre, where you can find Arctic Cathedral-inspired lodges and chic Norwegian cabins with panoramic windows ready for a Northern Lights-spotting session.
Shop
Gorp-y guys and girls, you’re in luck. As you can imagine, Tromsø has a fantastic selection of outdoor-focused shops for those wanting to get their adventure fix (or at least look the part). Naturkompaniet Tromsø is a one-stop shop for stylish outdoor brands like Yeti, Fjällräven and Hestra.
For a more unique souvenir, head to Edel Antikk og Vintage, a sweet little vintage shop where you can find retro stamps, prints and knickknacks. You might even score a well-loved traditional Norwegian jumper if you’re lucky. Of course, there are also a handful of (very well-stocked) tourist shops for those fridge magnets and postcards – we recommend The Sámi Gift Shop for traditional reindeer carvings, Indigenous art and handmade woollen gloves.
Do
From chasing the Northern Lights to taking a dog sled expedition, you’ll never be short of things to do in the Arctic’s capital. It’s worth noting that most activities in Tromsø are booked via pre-arranged tours rather than a DIY approach – bear that in mind if you’re not a fan of organised fun.
Of course, most people come to Tromsø to try and see the Northern Lights – your best bet is between August and April. The good news on this front is that Tromsø is slap-bang in the middle of the Aurora Zone, meaning if the conditions are right (clear skies, minimal light pollution and some solar activity), your chances of seeing them are good. Download an Aurora app and (obsessively) watch it for signs of activity.
If the signals are looking strong, head up to Prestvannet Lake on the outskirts of town, set up your camera and wait for a show. Given that trying to spot the Northern Lights can become something of an extreme sport, you can also outsource the hunt to an experienced guide and join an organised chase – we recommend The Green Adventure – whose guides will assess the ever-changing weather conditions and drive you to (hopefully) see something special. They’ll also pack polar suits, hot chocolate and reindeer stew to fuel the evening’s expedition.
While nights are dedicated to Aurora spotting, days are about local wildlife, learning about Sámi culture, and exploring the fjords. The Sámi people are the only community allowed to work with reindeer, and local families have been farming them for generations – like Tromsø Arctic Reindeer, set up by the Oskal family. Guests are invited to help feed the family’s herd of over 300 reindeer (yes, you can take snaps) before joining a short sled ride. You’ll then head inside one of the traditional Sámi gamme tents for lunch and some storytelling.
Tromsø Villmarksenter, 25 minutes outside the city, is home to 200 (very friendly) working huskies. Here, you can join a professional musher for a guided ride around the beautiful Kvaløya-island countryside, which is a truly magical experience. But if you’d prefer to hang out with the pack, you can book a husky meet and greet session – they’ll all will be excited to meet you, too. In summer, Villmarksenter even offers a programme where you can borrow a dog to join you on your holiday – after all, who doesn’t want a furry hiking companion?
Don’t forget to set some time aside to explore the city, too. Spend a morning admiring the traditional fisherman’s houses around the port, take an hour in the kitsch (but surprisingly informative) Troll Museum or brush up on your local history at The Polar Museum. It’s also worth venturing across the river to visit the iconic Arctic Cathedral, which is best seen at night when its stained glass glows with colour. Its acoustics are also on point – you can catch year-round musical performances and famous midnight concerts here.
Give new meaning to the term “polar plunge” with a visit to Pust, the city’s floating sauna. Whether you choose a silent session or something a little more social in their Lavvo sauna, you’ll be working up a sweat while watching local fishermen drive by – before embracing your inner Wim Hof with a dip in the Arctic Ocean. Trust us, it’s cold. But you’ll feel fantastic afterwards. If you’re nervous to brave the cold yourself, Pust also organises guided ice-bathing experiences as well as a handful of different sauna rituals.
If it’s looking like a clear evening, get a front-row seat for sunset atop the Fjellheisen cable car. Journey to 421 metres above sea level for panoramic views of the city, the surrounding fjords and even a glimpse of Ms Aurora herself if you stay until after dark.
Sophie Hay is a writer, digital editor and freelance brand consultant based in east London. She specialises in luxury fashion and lifestyle content
