Eat Early
No visit to Taormina is complete without a stop at BamBar, a local institution known for its granita, a semi-frozen dessert made from sugar, water and flavourings. BamBar makes its granita daily, with flavours ranging from almond to pistachio to lemon. But given it’s breakfast you’re after, you should plump for the coffee version, which is served with a smile from the owner and a brioche bun. The bar itself is decorated in a quirky, colourful style, with outdoor seating that’s perfect for people-watching as they go about their business on the piazza. For the best of that other very Sicilian breakfast delicacy, cannoli, head to Laboratorio Pasticceria Roberto. This pastry shop has been a local favourite for over 30 years, with recipes passed down through generations.
Eat Late
Given the influx of moneyed travellers to Taormina in the past few decades, it’s no surprise to find a glut of outstanding restaurants all over town. So, let’s start with one of our favourites – the brilliantly named Tischi Toschi, run by owner and chef Luca Casablanca. It’s a two-storey trattoria boasting a truly fantastic menu of modern Sicilian fare. Another corker is Vicolo Stretto, tucked away in a narrow alley just off Corso Umberto. Chef Salvatore Gambuzza offers a menu that changes with the seasons, featuring dishes such as homemade pasta with fresh truffles and sea bass with citrus sauce. For views, you can’t beat Ristorante Timeo, located within the Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo. The menu showcases Sicilian flavours with a contemporary twist, featuring dishes such as red prawn tartare with burrata and caviar, and black pork with Etna apples and hazelnuts.
Drink
Anybody who’s anybody will eventually find themselves in Morgana, Taormina’s magnetic nightspot. The cocktail list is as extensive as it is excellent, but really it’s all about Morgana’s garden, which is the talk of the town each season. Proprietor Guido Spinello changes it every year and the unveiling has become something of a calendar event. Get there early, and pre-game your dancing shoes with enough negronis to see you through to the early hours.
Shop
As you stroll along Corso Umberto, Taormina’s main shopping street, you’ll find a mix of luxury boutiques, artisan shops and local markets which, with their charm and eclecticism, will definitely tempt you to part with your cash. For high-end fashion, visit stores such as Dell’Oglio, where you’ll find Italian designer clothing and accessories. For something more unique, explore the local artisan shops offering handmade ceramics, jewellery and textiles. Look out for Ceramiche dell’Artigianato Siciliano Managò, which specialises in beautifully crafted ceramics inspired by traditional Sicilian designs.
Stay
At the cheaper end of the spectrum, Taormina hotels feel pretty tired, so if you can plump for a bit of luxury, it is worth the splurge. Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea is an exquisite retreat located on the Bay of Mazzarò. Once a private residence, the villa was transformed into a luxury hotel in the 1950s, but has retained its intimate, home-like atmosphere. The Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, Taormina’s first hotel, opened its doors in 1873. Located next to the Antiquarium del Teatro Greco Romano, the hotel has hosted countless celebrities and dignitaries over the years. Its interiors are a blend of classic Sicilian style and modern luxury, with frescoed ceilings, antique furniture and opulent chandeliers. The San Domenico Palace, Taormina, A Four Seasons Hotel, a former 15th-century monastery, is now one of Sicily’s most luxurious addresses. The hotel’s history is reflected in its architecture, with cloistered courtyards, ancient stone walls and original frescoes. Its Michelin-starred restaurant, Principe Cerami, is outstanding.
Do
Corso Umberto, Taormina’s bustling main street, is the beating heart of the town. As you walk along it, you’ll notice the 12th-century Porta Messina and Porta Catania, which mark the entrance to the town. Make a stop at Piazza IX Aprile, where the black-and-white chequered square offers breathtaking views of Mount Etna and the Bay of Naxos. The piazza is also home to the 17th-century Chiesa di San Giuseppe, with its stunning Baroque facade. Next, you’ll want to tick off Isola Bella, also known as the Pearl of the Ionian Sea. A small island connected to the mainland by a narrow sandbar, it was purchased by Florence Trevelyan, an English noblewoman, in 1890, who transformed it into a private garden paradise. The hike to Chiesa Madonna della Rocca is well worth the effort. This small chapel, carved into the rock in the 12th century, is perched high above Taormina and offers panoramic views of the town and the Ionian Sea.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among other publications, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
