Stay
Tokyo boasts some of the most iconic hotels in the world, not least the Park Hyatt, which famously featured in the 2003 film Lost in Translation. If you’re looking to escape the madness of the city but still be very much in touch with it, then the Aman Tokyo is perfectly located and forms something of a zen retreat amid the urban jungle. The K5 Hotel in Nihonbashi is the place to experience the fusion of old and new. The historic building, which was built in 1924, was once a bank but now houses a stunning industrial-chic hotel along with a restaurant, bar, coffee shop and beer hall. If you want to be in the thick of it, then Trunk Hotel will tick that box and many others. Located close to the heart of Shibuya, it’s an ideal launchpad for your Tokyo adventures. Immaculately designed inside, the hotel’s ethos revolves around socialising, with the restaurant, Kushi, at its centre, specialising in skewered food.
Eat early
Although the famous wholesale fish market relocated to Toyosu in 2018, the Tsukiji Outer Market is still the beating heart of traditional Japanese food. Don’t expect muesli and yoghurt here – the air is rich with the scent of the sea, and so breakfast and lunch are more likely to look like tamagoyaki and grilled scallops. There are over 300 shops and restaurants lining the warren-like outer market but one of our favourites is Tsukiji Sushi Sei Honten – a light-wooden interior split across two levels belies the level of complexity in the flavours. For something cheap, cheerful and not from the sea, head to A Happy Pancake in Ginza. This chain was founded in Osaka but is now a fully-fledged Tokyo rite of passage, serving up ridiculously fluffy pancakes for some early-morning debauchery. For a spectacular lunch, try Narisawa in Aoyama, a gourmet’s dream where chef Yoshihiro Narisawa (who has two Michelin stars to his name) creates a strictly seasonal and ever-changing Japanese menu using French cooking techniques. The main dining has that low-lit sexiness to it that you can lose all sense of time in. You can’t stay in Tokyo without trying the ramen, so head to Afuri Ramen in Shinjuku for as good a bowl of slurpy goodness as you’ll find. Its yuzu broth is a refreshing twist on traditional ramen and lingers long after you’ve wiped your chin for the last time.
Eat late
Let’s start with two gems for sushi lovers – the first is Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi Hills, which boasts two Michelin stars. It is the sister restaurant to the very famous and ridiculously exclusive Sukiyabashi Jiro and is run by Jiro’s son, Takashi Ono. Dining here is akin to a religious experience. The late Anthony Bourdain once described dining in Japan as ‘…like taking acid for the first time, meaning, “What do I do now that I see the whole world in a different way?”’, and this place very much has the same effect. Another gem is Sushi Arai in Ginza, owned by the brilliant Yuichi Arai, who cut his sushi teeth at renowned sushi restaurants such as Kyubey and Sushi Sho. With a peaceful wooden interior befitting traditional Japanese minimalism, the flavours are invariably maximalist as Arai takes you on a culinary journey around Japan’s shores. Fans of kaiseki (essentially a haute cuisine, five(ish)-course tasting menu), then Den in Shibuya is a must-visit. Chef patron Zaiyu Hasegawa has created something really special here, with playful touches and an incredibly friendly ambiance (the staff at Den greet guests with a hug) that feels like eating at home, only way better!
Drink
Tokyo is awash with beer, highballs and world-class single malts so revelry is never far away, especially when navigating through Golden Gai’s labyrinth of alleys in Shinjuku, where each bar is a world unto itself. Share tales with locals in these cosy corners, each space holding stories as rich as the drinks they serve. Nonbei Yokochō (Drunkard’s Alley) in Shibuya is much quieter than you’d expect, and a great place to sample sake and shochu. About 5km away in Minato is another must-visit Gen Yamamoto, offering a cocktail omakase, with the option to choose a four-, five-, six- or seven-drink menu. Good luck walking out straight. And, if you’re based in Tokyo, make a beeline for Bar Benfiddich, founded by mad genius Hiroyasu Kayama. It’s virtually impossible to find, and when you’re in the right place, you’ll have to squeeze into an old lift or troop up nine flights of a pretty uninspiring building in Shinjuku but it’s worth the schlep. By day, bar tender Kayama is a farmer in Chichibu but by night, he provides one of the best bar experiences you’ll ever have.
Shop
For luxury boutiques, Ginza is the place to be, with every brand from Chanel to Louis Vuitton pitched up there. Of course, the star attraction is Ginza 6, a shopping mall where fashion is fused with contemporary art. Ginza is also home to some of the best architecture-fashion crossovers in the world, notably Renzo Piano’s Maison Hermès. Go for the fashion, stay for the buildings. For unique clothing finds, head to Tomigaya, near Yoyogi Park – it’s a treasure trove of indie boutiques. 10tow is great for rare vintage Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto, while Esmeralda Serviced Department is brilliant for under-the-radar brands and vintage pieces. Similarly, Shimokitazawa is a haven for vintage. Nakameguro is the best place for home items and Kappabashi Kitchen Town is a must-visit for any wannabe chef – it’s the place to pick up some serious Japanese steel.
Do
Tokyo is a city brimming with serendipitous encounters so put your intrepid cap on and get out there. But first, coffee. For those who worship at the altar of caffeine, Kiyosumi Shirakawa is a holy pilgrimage. Known for its coffee culture, here you can sip on some of the best brews in Tokyo, surrounded by the tranquillity of Kiyosumi Gardens. Suitably fuelled, start your cultural journey at Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest temple. From Kaminarimon Gate, through Nakamise-dori, the path is lined with history and charm. In Harajuku, escape into the Meiji Shrine, where the city’s noise fades under the canopy of trees. Here, tradition breathes deeply, offering peace and contemplation, something you won’t find at Ryogoku Kokugikan, the city’s sumo arena. The sumo tournaments here are not just an event but a cultural spectacle, where size, strength and strategy collide in a display of violent grace. From ancient tradition, step into the future at teamLab, where digital art comes alive, responding to your presence, turning you into part of the art itself. In contrast, taking a stroll through Yanaka District will give you a sense of a place where time has stood still, offering up a quieter side of Tokyo, rich with history, authenticity and serenity. Find your zen at Hama Rikyu, where each step through this Edo-period garden whispers tales of past emperors.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among other publications, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
