Amsterdam is not all that it is purported to be. Far from the alleged throngs of pre-marital revellers and hedonistic travellers, this is a city that exudes a deep sense of peace and calm. Boats drift along the canals that criss-cross the city centre, watery reflections dance in the handblown glass of the canal front’s tall and narrow historical buildings. Independent boutiques line the cobbled alleyways, tulips and trees populate the multitude of green spaces and couples sit nonchalantly, toes skimming the water, outside picturesque bruin cafés. It is a gastronome’s dream, with some of the most visionary chefs feeding a populace keen on experimentation. Culturally, it is a gallery-goers haven and, historically, a living masterpiece. Whatever your inspiration, Amsterdam is definitely worthy of a closer look.
Eat Early
For the ultimate in breakfast offerings, head to the suntrap canal-side terrace of Greenwoods Keizersgracht, which has been serving up a heaven-sent morning menu for over 30 years. The Dutch love their pancakes, or pannenkoeken, and The Pancake Bakery is the epicentre of this obsession, where they serve them every way imaginable. Meanwhile Uncommon Amsterdam specialises in exceptional, sustainably sourced coffees and unique small dishes using the very freshest of local ingredients.
De Hallen is one of the most impressive street food galleries in the world. Situated within the city’s old tram depot, the vast, floor-to-ceiling glass doors offer a beautiful backdrop. Restaurant de Plantage is a lively brasserie housed in a wonderfully ornate conservatory that spills out onto a sun-drenched terrace – the food here is incredible and affordable. Mid-afternoon munchies? It’s all about stroopwafels. Absolutely divine, you will find them on most street corners but the best have got to be Rudi’s Original Stroopwafels – it’s the perfect pit stop.
Eat Late
Amsterdam is an exciting melting pot of pioneering and creative cuisine. The pinnacle is BAK Restaurant – sitting on the third floor of Het Veem, a former warehouse in the old timber port of the city and boasting stunning views out over Amsterdam’s Houthaven, BAK has a focus on local, sustainable and seasonal produce transformed into wildly innovative dishes. Pick from several multi-coursed tasting menus, all washed down with perfectly paired natural wines. For the ultimate in sustainable experiences try De Kas, where the freshest produce is eaten in vast traditional greenhouses. Alternatively, dip into impressively creative modern Dutch dining at Wilde Zwijnen. For some traditional Dutch specialities, try the homecooked classics on offer at Moeders or the classic no-frills delights at Hap-Hmm, where locals head for some traditional comfort food.
Drink
One of the greatest pleasures in Amsterdam is starting, ending or punctuating the day with a canal-side drink, ideally at a bruin café (brown café), the Dutch equivalent of the local pub. Locals’ favourites include the Herengracht Restaurant & Bar – the ultimate people-watching spot with dreamy canal views; Café ‘t Smalle – a wood-panelled bar that has been serving liquor to discerning city folk since Pieter Hoppe opened his distillery here in 1780; or, Café de Sluyswacht, a wonky lockhouse-turned-café which has occupied the lock of the Oudeschans canal since 1695.
It would be remiss not to indulge in a brewery tour, as small independent Dutch brewers make delicious, unique and craftily clever beers. One of the best is Brouwerij ‘t IJ, whose original taproom sits in the shadow of Amsterdam’s largest windmill. Just as iconic is the Dutch precursor to gin, “jenever” – rich and malty, it is infused with botanicals including juniper berries. The oldest master jenever distillery in Amsterdam goes by the delightful name of Wynand Fockink, and its atmospheric tasting shop oozes 17th-century charm.
Shop
Amsterdam is a shopper’s delight, particularly in the De Negen Straatjes area, with everything from high-end designers to pop-up stores and a multitude of independent boutiques such as De Kaaskamer, crammed floor to ceiling with cheese – or beauty boutique Marie-Stella-Maris marrying heavenly scented natural body products with a commitment to donating to global clean-water projects. If your little ones lack the ultra-cool vibe of Dutch kids, pop in to Gray Label to give them the ultimate hipster makeover, then give yourself a cheeky treat at Denham, the store that puts Amsterdam firmly at the top of the denim design movement. Vintage is vast, from clothing options such as Episode, which has four warehouse stores of second-hand clothes across the city to Recycle, an inspirational bike shop, which repairs and re-sells traditional and modern Dutch bicycles. Finally, take a stroll through Albert Cuyp Market in the hip De Pijp area.
Stay
The iconic Hoxton on the Herengracht has been a central canal-side institution here since 2015, but Hoxton’s new kid on the block is every bit as impressive. The Hoxton, Lloyd Amsterdam sits in the Eastern Dock area and is housed in a towering stone warehouse that was built by the Royal Holland Lloyd Shipping Company in 1921. It has served as both a refugee shelter and a prison in the past and there is no denying its institutional architectural roots, but The Hoxton team has infused this raw base with a lavish sprinkling of edgy urban design to create something rather special. Think captivating modern art collections, views out across the river IJ, a well-curated regional menu at its Breman Brasserie and a cocktail bar that celebrates an Argentinian connection.
Do
From the traditional powerhouses of the Van Gogh Museum and the Anne Frank House to the grand collections and architectural beauty of the Rijksmuseum or the street art collectives at STRAAT, there is no debating that this city is a cultural fillip. Be sure to drift along the canal on an electric open boat – Mokumboot uses traditional boats to explore the central city both by day and in the twinkling evening. Join the locals and rent a bike to see miles more of this forgivingly flat city – A-Bike is a good rental choice, and close to the vast Vondelpark. Finally, take the exceptionally easy half-hour train ride north of Amsterdam to Zaanse Schans. The beautifully reconstructed riverside, full of traditional windmills, brings to life the 17th-century landscape paintings hanging in the Rijksmuseum and gives a fantastic sense of place and history to the city and its surrounds.
Secret Tip
Invest in an I amsterdam City Card card the moment you arrive. Not only does it guarantee free entry to most of the main and lesser-known sites, but it also has a wonderful linked app that makes exploring feel as though you have a local in your pocket.
Melanie O’Shea travelled as a guest of EasyJet, whose return flights link Amsterdam with numerous UK airports from £130pp. Melanie is a freelance travel writer who writes for UK and international media
