By rights, Berlin should be a busted flush by now, after its two decades at the top, its 20 years of being overrun with American escapees, its decades of being the go-to shorthand for a particular kind of Mittel-European cool: modern, hard-hearted, thrillingly industrial. And yet somehow – despite all the new money and the hordes of tourists – the place has still got it. It has, of course, been smartened up no end, but there is still, in the right places, an echo of the old days, a hint of that haunted ultra-urban city that so entranced Iggy and Dave back in the ’70s. And the city’s signature look is unchanged. When you’re there, dress as they do: art-rock, off-kilter, unapologetically.