Thalia Metallinou: the intimate side of Corfu

Thalia Metallinou works for British Vogue, travelling the world visiting the best fashion houses and navigating the ever-changing world of fashion. Now living in London, she hails from Corfu and goes back when she can to her favourite spots. It may be a far cry from the catwalks of Paris and Milan, and the magazine's special events and projects, but that’s the point. Here she shares her secret tips for a visit to the Ionian island.

Corfu, the island that many from around the world love, the place where I grew up and I can proudly call home. Someone can’t understand and appreciate its beauty just by visiting the touristy and well-known places. Rather, Corfu’s charm resides in its scenic villages and secret treasures known only by locals.

Selecting the optimal time to visit Corfu is essential. If you are a lover of culture and tradition, you must experience Easter on the island. It’s the most famous and culturally heavy time in Greece. People from all over the world come every year to see and be a part of it. Amid the melodies of music, both locals and tourists unite, coming together in celebration. Even if you are not Christian, the sense of togetherness is palpable, enhanced by the delicious cuisine, refreshing beverages and cherished traditional customs.

If, on the other hand, you want to enjoy your summer holidays, plan your visit around 11 August, a big celebration in Corfu – a celebration of Saint Spyridon’s miracle against the Ottoman attack. Philharmonic bands are marching in the morning in the historic centre of Corfu, and all the locals are there to celebrate with them.

If you do manage to go to Corfu between June and September, make sure you visit Paxos, a little island, part of the seven Ionian islands (Eptanisa, which translates as “seven islands”) with crystal-clear waters. Since 2018, Paxos Biennale has taken place – a free, public contemporary art festival on the island. The Paxos Biennale project aims to support the work of young and emerging artists by offering a unique environment in which to express their ideas and creativity. Through a curated map, visitors can explore a diverse array of sculptures, installations, photography, murals and performances scattered across the island. To enhance your experience, be sure to indulge in a meal at Bournaos, where the ambiance is elevated further with live music, promising an unforgettable evening.

Going back to Corfu, the activities and places you can visit are countless. I will list below a few of my favourite secret spots, but make sure you keep them a secret too…

Choé Candles, a locally produced brand that was founded a few years ago in a small village on Corfu. The brand’s products are entirely natural, hand-poured and handcrafted. It’s worth visiting the factory, workshop and showroom, where you can see how it makes everything by hand.

My favourite beach in Corfu is, hands down, Megas Choros. It’s a long drive from Corfu’s Old Town but definitely worth it. A quiet beach on the west side of the island with just a few groups of friends and locals. If you want a relaxing day under the sun, with just your book and the sea, this is the place for you. Make sure you bring water and fresh fruit with you.

The most famous dinner place is Bellos (also known as Klimataria) and understandably so, as the food is amazing. If you do, however, want to try a quiet local taverna, Atzardo is my favourite spot. Hidden in Kouramádes village, the taverna is on the square with only a few tables and with mostly local customers. You will only find food that they made that day.

Last but not least, my ultimate sanctuary, in Corfu and in the world, is in Palaiokastritsa. You’ll find it next to the Monastery – a humble rock that locals seek solace at. Picture this: you’re sitting there, gazing at the endless sea and sky, feeling totally connected with nature. It’s almost like a meditation, grounding you and putting things into perspective. Sometimes, that’s just what we need: a break from the hustle and bustle, a chance to reconnect with ourselves and appreciate the moment. This is Corfu for me.

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