In his 20 years of modelling, Philip Huang has worked for a roll call of big names from Milan and Paris, appearing in campaigns and walking the runway for Gucci, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Lacoste. This view from the inside was invaluable when, in 2016, along with his wife Chomwan Weeraworawit, he set up his eponymous label. Working with the renowned indigo dyers of Sakon Nakhon in the Isan region of Thailand, they produce a limited number of pieces every year and their production process means that every item is unique.
Calling on the indigenous knowledge of the local artisans, they produce clothes dyed with indigo to create garments that are naturally UV resistant, antibacterial and antimicrobial (properties popular with samurai who used to wear indigo layers under their armour to prevent any wounds from getting infected). Sales are currently mostly through their website, but they do pop-ups everywhere from Hong Kong to Munich and are soon to open a store in Charoen Krung, Bangkok’s buzziest neighbourhood.
Sakon Nakhon province is one of the most northerly provinces of the Isan region, or the northeast part of Thailand close to the border with Laos. It gets some tourism but it’s mostly domestic. People visit for Phu Phan National Park with its caves and waterfalls, and some local companies organise trips to see some of the region’s very special forest temples, but it’s not got the same kind of tourist infrastructure as other parts of the country.
For me, the main draw of Sakon Nakhon is its abundant nature, in particular its indigo, and its famous artisans with their centuries-long traditions of making things inspired by the local environment. We base ourselves at a small local hotel, the Dusit Hotel in Sakon Nakhon town, and from here we take friends on “indigo safaris”, exploring the region through the lens of the artisans.
One of our first stops is always Mann Gardens, which is the creation of local artisan Prach Niyomkar. He took an empty piece of land and turned it into this oasis, a sanctuary for natural dyes and agriculture. There’s an edible garden, and everything grown there has a purpose; to be used as a dye or to be eaten – or to repel mosquitoes, like lemongrass. He runs dyeing and educational workshops from his Indigo Loom House and has a boutique where you can purchase artisanal creations.
Another artisanal highlight is a wonderful pottery place called Don Moo Din, run by the ceramicist Walriya Pengsawang. She built her studio herself and it’s a beautiful space with a pond. She crafts all her ceramics and finishes them in her hand-fired kiln. She runs day-long ceramics workshops, which are a must-do when you’re in Sakon Nakhon.
In the right season, we often start our trips in a province close by to Sakon Nakhon, in Udon Thani, to visit the sea of lotuses that turns into a sea of red lotuses that you take a boat through. It’s a spectacular experience. There is also our favourite restaurant in Udon Thani, Samuay and Sons, which is one of the world’s great off-the-beaten-path restaurants. It’s run by chef Num, a great champion of Isan cuisine which embraces micro-seasonality, foraging and fermentation. He had been living in San Francisco with his brother, who is a pastry chef and herbalist, but their mom got sick, so they came back home and decided to open up the restaurant in their hometown. The food in Sakon Nakhon itself is also brilliant, a favourite is Sabang Nga for local home-cooking. The food really brings out the rich agricultural abundance of the region, in Sakon Nakhon and beyond in the Isan region.
Find out more about Philip’s unique clothes at philiphuang.com
Interview by David Annand. David is editorial director of Secret Trips
