There’s nothing quite like seeing a prolific artist’s work up close and personal. But those great works of art are often confined to clinical white walls in an arbitrary space that doesn’t give a true insight into the creator. The Dalí Theatre-Museum is one of those rare examples of a gallery that is truly reflective of its subject.
Not only is it home to the world’s most extensive collection of work by the Surrealist icon, but the entire space was conceived and designed by Dalí himself. And you don’t need to be an art history major to work that one out; the bright red-and-gold fortress-style building flanked by humungous “eggs” and a dazzling glass dome so characteristically Dalí, it couldn’t possibly have been dreamed up by anyone else.
Inside is also thoroughly Dalí. The museum charts his monumental career, from his early dabbles in Futurism and Impressionism to his Surrealist masterpieces. As well as instantly recognisable oil paintings and sketches, the museum is a permanent home to a number of interactive and large-scale exhibitions, including the Sistine Chapel-style The Palace of Wind and the Mae West Room, in which pieces of furniture merge to resemble the actor’s face when viewed at just the right angle.
The museum is Dalí’s artistic swansong and a great work of art itself. It was built in the former Figueres Municipal Theatre, where Dalí held one of his earliest exhibitions before it was destroyed in the Spanish Civil War. He designed his museum from the remains of the theatre and was heavily involved in every aspect of its creation, conceiving it as one big Surrealist experience. It officially opened in September 1974, and when the artist died in 1989, he was buried in a crypt below the stage. Talk about committing to a bit.
To call the Dalí Theatre-Museum a hidden gem would be a stretch, considering it attracts over one million visitors a year, but Figueres itself is somewhat off the beaten path. Dalí’s hometown is a charming, quintessentially Catalan city in Spain’s Girona region, located around 150km north of Barcelona and close to the French border. It’s conveniently close to pretty, coastal towns along the Costa Brava – including Roses and Cadaqués, where you’ll find the Salvador Dalí House Museum, where the celebrated artist resided for 40 years.
Girona, the capital of the region, is also well worth a visit with its medieval architecture, Old Quarter and Roman ruins – not to mention the picturesque Onyar River that runs through it. If you’ve had your fill of Barcelona (and Lord knows the locals have had their fill of tourists) then head north on your next Spanish sojourn and enjoy a slice of Surrealist paradise.
Plaça Gala i Salvador Dalí, 5, 17600 Figueres, Girona, Spain; salvador-dali.org
Gemma Billington is a London-based writer and editor
