Hudson can definitely be enjoyed on foot, but any Hudson local will tell you that a car is necessary to experience all the charm this valley two-hours north of New York City has to offer. With the freedom to drive, you can explore not only the restaurants, bars and boutiques of Warren Street, but also the farms and hidden gems that make Upstate, well, Upstate! Consider this your roadmap to experiencing the valley the way locals do.
There’s so much to explore, but I’ll try to cram it into a 24-hour(ish) period! If you’re in New York, then leave the city before rush-hour on Friday and check into Camptown, a chic yet affordable stay from the same team behind Rivertown Lodge. It’s technically on the Catskills side but it’s 10 minutes from Hudson and with its mix of log cabins and hotel rooms, it’s an authentic setting in the valley, marking the tone for a stylish, stripped-back weekend.
Once you’re settled, drive over the bridge and into Hudson for dinner at The Diner – newly reopened as part of a collaboration between Meat Hook and Mel The Bakery (both of which have standalone butcher and bakery spaces in town). It’s walk-in only, so if you don’t get a table right away, head over to nearby The Hereafter for a pre (or post) dinner cocktail.
With a good night’s sleep in the bank, have breakfast at nearby local spot Gracie’s in Leeds. My personal favourite is the “posh hashbrowns” with crème fraîche and salmon roe, washed down with a mimosa.
Satiated, head to Warren Street – the heart of Hudson. Antique troves and vintage emporiums sit alongside trendy boutiques run by local creatives. Stop at The Modern Exchange for a carefully curated mix of vintage European and American furniture and rugs, The Quiet Botanist for flowers, teas, chocolates and candles, Finch for its blend of mid-century furniture and contemporary lifestyle brands, Jamestown for great womenswear and even better menswear and Clove & Creek for the best all-rounder.
When the shopping is done, drive down to Tivoli and grab a sandwich from Club followed by a Fortunes Ice Cream while you take in the vibe of this quaint and charming little town. There’s also a lovely little walk with great views down on the water by the Tivoli Bays if you need to digest.
From there, head back to Camptown for a pause before heading off for dinner at Matilda in The Henson hotel. Matilda is the downstairs restaurant from New York chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra. Like their acclaimed spots Wildair and Contra, Matilda turns out inventive, regionally inspired fare. Have a nightcap in the very fashionable bar.
So that’s your 24 hours, but you can slow-play your exit, right?! Everyone’s Sunday should start in Kinderhook – another enchanting town where you should have a bite at Morning Bird. Don’t be fooled by the coffee shop setup; the food (with an Asian twist) is absolutely delicious. The egg sandwich is a personal favourite! Pop in to OK Pantry next door for a spot of browsing. If it’s not too early, the Bottle Shop might also have some grape-variety items worth taking home. The unassuming looking Shaker Museum in Kinderhook is also worth a look-in.
From here, drive over to Kinderhook Farm. Depending on the time of year, you could be met with lambs and calves leaping around. You’re free to roam the farm and look in on their various residents – geese, chickens, sheep, cows, a horse – and their remarkable and clever guardian dogs.
Before leaving, pop into the Farm Store (bring your freezer bag) and stock up on the best meats and eggs. They also have great caps! Make sure to browse the walls and speak to the farm owner about the framed Native American arrow heads that have been found on the farm over the decades – some of which are thousands of years old. In the afternoon, walk around Art Omi – a not-for-profit arts centre in Ghent featuring a 120-acre sculpture and architecture park and a gallery with rotating indoor exhibitions.
A little detour on your walk back through town – head up to the Klocke Estate, abrandy and vermouth distillery and bar, farm and restaurant on 160 acres in Claverack – to watch the sunset over a drink before driving back across the bridge for dinner at your hotel, in Casa Susanna. This is one of the best restaurants around; chef Efrén Hernández creates exceptional Mexican dishes using local Hudson produce. His winter desserts are also some of the best you will ever have.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among others, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
