Stay
Hotel offerings in Santa Teresa differ greatly from those in the rest of the city. Here, you won’t find huge chains and five-star towers, but most places are blessed with incredible views and offer a boutique experience that would be hard to find anywhere else. If you want a luxury retreat, Villa Santa Teresa offers five-star hotel treatment while being in the heart of the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood. The property is immersed in lush vegetation, and its outdoor pool offers one of the best views over Rio’s skyline. For the design buffs, there is no better place than Chez Georges. In this modernist villa, Corbusier-inspired concrete mixes with precious woods, leather accents and stylish vintage pieces to create a chic, homely atmosphere. And if you feel inspired, the hotel also hosts a recording studio.
If stars aren’t a priority, there are quite a few small hotels and guest houses that offer just as much care for the guests and equally fabulous views. Castelo dos Tucanos is a hostel built in a 19th-century mansion, the private rooms are simple but functional, some boasting dramatic views over Christ the Redeemer and the city. Gerthrudes offers a relaxed atmosphere and, again, insane views over the city that you can truly only get in Santa Teresa, plus a delicious breakfast. Casa Gerânio might only have three stars, but it has an infinity pool with a view over downtown Rio de Janeiro and a calming environment perfect for recharging. Casa Samambaia is a wonderfully restored colonial house run by a French couple, with sleek but cosy interiors and, as ever, superb views.
Eat early
There is one unmissable food combo in Brazil, and that’s a refreshing açaí bowl served with a basket of steaming hot, chewy and delicious pão de queijo (cheese bread). In Santa Teresa, no place does it better than Cultivar, a small organic food shop and café on Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno, serving tapioca “crêpes” filled with cheese, tofu, egg cream or banana, indulgent, homemade pão de queijo and açaí. The unassuming Estação do Açaí is another good call for açaí lovers. Botequim Ladeirinha is the place to go to get a simple yet delicious traditional Brazilian lunch (or early dinner), in Santa Teresa. The menu is small, with a choice of steak, fish or chicken, which all come with the same trimmings of rice, fries and beans. If you choose to get the fried chicken, which you really should, your meal will also come with farofa, a side made of toasted cassava flour that is surprisingly delicious.
Eat late
For late-night eats, go where the vibe is best. In the centre, a stand making delicious homemade acarajé (a fritter filled with shrimp) is always active during the weekend, and most places offer food until late. Bar Simplesmente, open until 1am, serves tasty traditional food at excellent prices and offers live music entertainment. Places in Lapa, only minutes down the road, through the iconic Escadaria Selarón, are also open very late to cater to partygoers.
Drink
During the weekend, people spill onto the streets of Santa Teresa from all the little bars and restaurants, beer in hand. There’s nothing like a night out with the Cariocas to make you realise you don’t need a fancy cocktail list or a velvet sofa to have a very good time. That said, there are a few nice cocktail bars that are worth a visit. Explorer Bar is open from 12pm during the weekend and is as great for a boozy lunch as it is for evening drinks. This elevated oasis is perfect for people-watching from above, but most importantly, the food is good and the drinks are better. Less chic but more atmospheric, Bar Armazém São Thiago is located in the heart of Santa Teresa and is the place to be during the weekend if you want to have fun. Order a classic caipirinha or a beer and some delicious cenourinha de porco (fried pork parcels) for the best combo. Novooeste Bar is popular for their burgers and their lovely atmosphere. A great place to enjoy some live music, tasty food and, of course, some top-notch caipirinhas.
Shop
Rio de Janeiro’s shopping hub lies in Ipanema, but Santa Teresa is perfect for buying little unusual souvenirs and crafty gifts. La Vereda is a charming shop selling souvenirs as well as local art and crafts. Here you can find little favela reconstructions, ceramics, textile art and more. Favela Hype has a cherry-picked selection of local brands as well as bigger Brazilian designers, and a small café inside the shop. A great place to discover and support Rio-based makers. Nau Cultural is an art gallery and shop where you can learn more about the arts and crafts of Brazil while also shopping for unique and unusual souvenirs. It also hosts a lot of events, so it’s good to keep an eye on its Instagram for news.
Do
My favourite activity in Santa Teresa is strolling around and soaking up the atmosphere. This neighbourhood is completely different from the other famous spots in Rio de Janeiro, and it calls for a slow travel day built around eating and drinking. The Bondes de Santa Teresa is a very touristy but pleasant activity when in the neighbourhood. If you jump on it in Lapa, the tram will take you through Santa Teresa. To get off in the heart of the neighbourhood, stop at Largo dos Guimarães, where most of the restaurants and bars are located.
You could spend 10 minutes or five hours in Parque das Ruínas. There is always an exhibition to enjoy, with the option to buy small prints of the work that is being exhibited, which makes for a great and original souvenir. The views over the city from the terrace are fabulous, and there is also a kiosk with a few outdoor tables serving food and drinks. This spot doesn’t seem to ever get too busy since most tourists only tend to spend a few hours visiting Santa Teresa, so it’s a fabulous place to enjoy a caipirinha in the sun, undisturbed. If you are still hungry for culture, the Centro Cultural Laurinda Santos Lobo should also be on your list. Another must-see place between Santa Teresa and Lapa is the world-famous Escadaria Selarón. If you want to take the perfect, crowd-free picture, make sure to wake up early and make your way there at around 6am. Otherwise, this is a great place to visit in the afternoon and stay for dinner and drinks, enjoy the electric energy and party until you drop.
Santa Teresa boasts the best views of the city, all to be enjoyed for free. Climb to the very top of the Centro Cultural Parque das Ruínas building and discover 360-degree views over the “Cidade Maravilhosa”, including Sugarloaf Mountain, Rio’s iconic beaches and the city centre.
Alessia Armenise is a freelance writer, editorial strategist and content marketing specialist. She writes for various publications including Condé Nast Traveler, The Independent Travel and British Vogue
