There aren’t too many road names known by everyone around the world. In fact, Route 66 might be unique in its global renown. Celebrating its centenary in 2026, the stretch from Chicago to Los Angeles has a long and interesting history. From its early days supporting the great migration during the Dust Bowl in the ’30s, to its place in the golden era of motoring travel in the late ’40s and early ’50s, Route 66 has fostered dreams and given new realities to thousands of individuals and families looking to travel west.
When the Interstate System took hold following Eisenhower’s Federal-Aid Highway Act in 1956, the route effectively died out. This left the hundreds of small towns it passed through in the dust, and over the decades Route 66 became a relic of a lost era. Today it’s making a comeback however, and the National Historic Route 66 Federation aims to preserve what’s left. To see a slice of the road for myself, I headed on a 1,300-mile trip to the final leg of Route 66, beginning in Arizona and ending up at the finish line on Santa Monica Pier in LA.
Days 1-2: Phoenix
There are many ways you can experience Route 66. Arguably the best would be to travel the entire thing from its start in Chicago all the way through to LA. But due to time restraints, I decided on the west-coast leg, flying into Phoenix, picking up my Mercedes CLE 300 and driving the final leg across to Los Angeles via a number of the forgotten small towns along the way. Phoenix isn’t actually that far from LA. As the crow flies it is 374 miles of I-10 to the coast and can be done in just under six hours. This is of course not recommended. Phoenix is a great place to relax, especially if, like us, you book into the Fairmont Scottsdale Princess. A night or two will sort your head and allow you to adjust to the time zone, so you can make full use of the road.
Days 3-4: Sedona
From Phoenix the plan was to drive north and connect up to Route 66 in Flagstaff. The only trouble being Sedona is on the way. This is somewhere you must not miss and is arguably among the most beautiful places in the USA. I will come on to this, but Route 66 is best enjoyed with excursions. The Route has broken down over the years, and in parts is difficult and sometimes impossible to stay on. There is no longer one road all the way, with sections being paved over and destroyed. So, to skip Sedona would be a great shame. It is here where jagged red rock landscapes are painted with lush green foliage, and virtually everywhere you look is a picture. For those who like to hike, it is the place.
Day 5: Flagstaff
The drive from Sedona to Flagstaff is spectacular. This is thanks to the 89A. It is a winding, twisting road that climbs high through mountains and across gorges. There is a view at the top that drivers won’t want to miss. Onwards to Flagstaff and it is our first glimpse of Route 66. It is fairly unglamorous, but the brown road signs signalling “Historic Route 66” stir some romance as you venture down it. We stay at the Americana Motor Hotel, a newly refurbished, perfectly equipped motel complete with in-room disco ball, mood lighting and powerful air con, which is needed in the summer Arizona sun. Downtown Flagstaff is worth a visit. It has a train track running through the middle of it, and the old motel signs and beautiful brick architecture hint at another time.
Flagstaff has another trick up its sleeve. It is also known as the gateway to the Grand Canyon, which is just a 90-minute drive away. It would be a shame to come here and not see one of America’s great wonders.
Day 6: Kingman
The drive from Flagstaff to Kingman is a highlight. It takes in a great unbroken stretch of Route 66, passing through a number of small towns previously served by the road. There is the charming town of Williams, with its kitsch shops and old gas station museum. Best of all is Seligman. This is one of the most original stops on the entirety of Route 66. It’s lined with original buildings from the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s and has several well kitted-out gift shops, old motels and charming cafés and restaurants. The Roadkill Café and Westside Lilo’s Café are opposite each other and are popular. We try the latter, have buffalo chicken burgers and homemade potato salad and weren’t disappointed. Onwards through Peach Springs, Hackberry and its general store, past Antares Point and down to Kingman. There aren’t a huge number of things to see once in Kingman, but the Arizona Route 66 Museum is a must.
Days 7-8: Las Vegas
This one is another detour. Vegas is just an hour-and-a-half drive from Kingman, so a night or two in Sin City is worth it if you haven’t been before. We choose the longer way round however, sticking on Route 66 so we can see one of the oldest parts of it. The Oatman Highway was originally part of the Route before it was bypassed due to safety concerns. It is indeed a twisty, dusty and perilous stretch, boasting 191 turns in just 8 miles. It is worth it though, just to imagine how tricky it must have been with skinny 1920s tyres and 20 horsepower.
Oatman itself is a former goldmining town. It is very touristy and has its own army of burros [wild donkeys]. These are said to be descended from the animals used by goldminers, and they want your food. Once down and away from prying animals, we make a hard beeline for Vegas. We stay at the Fontainebleau, which is as good a hotel as you’ll find in this part of the world, with incredible food and a standout spa. Allow your lumbar to recover and rest that right foot.
Day 9: 29 Palms
After Vegas it is a descent back down to the Route. This is one of the greatest drives. Leave the highway at Primm and cut through the Mojave Desert. Long, empty roads with nobody else in sight. It is heaven. Connect up to the Kelbaker Road and eventually you’ll find Amboy. It is home to the legendary Roy’s, which is a refurbished motel and gas station with one of the best signs anywhere in the west. Stop here for an ice-cold Coke and enjoy the desert heat. You could continue along 66 from here, but I can never come to this part of the world without visiting Joshua Tree. 29 Palms Highway is home to many cool shops, restaurants and cafés. My recent favourite burger joint is Snake Bite Roadhouse, and on weekends the market at JT Trading Post is a must. We stay in 29 Palms and feel at home.
Days 10-11: Los Angeles
The final drive down to LA is a good one, until you start hitting LA traffic. Once past the Palm Springs wind turbines it is a countdown until it inevitably begins. Of course, we didn’t take the quickest way in but decided to link up to 66 again, visiting the Wigwam Motel on the way. This is an original 66 motel, designed like many were to draw attention and attract visitors. From here, 66 breaks up a couple of times, and the roads in are fairly uninspiring and downtrodden. Eventually, get down to Santa Monica and it is somewhat of a relief. We completed only a portion of Route 66, but it was still an epic drive. It also proved that, while the major sights are unmissable, some of America’s more interesting places are those in-between.
Charlie Thomas is a UK-based writer, journalist and photographer. He has written for the Financial TimesHow To Spend It,GQ, The Times, Robb Report and The Independent
