El Mercado de Triana
If you think Seville is laid back, wait until you rock up at this vibrant neighbourhood on the less-frequented west bank of the river, in the old barrio gitano (gypsy quarter), once the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition no less (a museum in the castle’s dungeon is even dedicated to it). Housed within the Castillo de San Jorge, a former Moorish fort, el Mercado de Triana feels as if it was invented to inspire unguided tapas tours. You’re literally spoilt for choice with all manner of local gastronomic delights. Start with some delicious jamón at Jamonería José Luis Romero before heading to Cervecería Loli for a restorative ice-cold draft of the local drop Cruzcampo.
Calle San Jorge 6, 41010 Seville; mercadodetrianasevilla.com
Dulcería Manu Jara
Stepping inside this graceful pastelería is like returning to a bygone era. From its eye-popping egg-yolk-coloured facade, decorated in emblematic Sevillana typography and flanked by orange trees positively heaving under the weight of ripe-for-the-picking fruit, everything has been most graciously preserved in time-honoured tradition. A pastry chef by profession and teacher by vocation, Manu Jara presides over one of the finest pastry stores in all Seville. Testament to that is the magnificence of delicacies in its mouth-watering window displays. There are so many on offer that it’s difficult to narrow down your choice, but if pushed, I’d plump for the Chantilly-cream-filled mini roscón de reyes buns – so delectably light and tasty.
Calle Pureza 5, 41010 Seville; manujara.com
Aceitunas el Puente
Devotees from across the river and far beyond beat a path to this humble stall in El Mercado de Triana for the finest iterations of local olives and olive oil. Here, you’ll find loyal punters rubbing shoulders with some of Seville’s most celebrated chefs – the latter keen to procure the cream of the crop to serve to their discerning diners and secure that all-important good first impression. This family-run business has been around for more than 50 years, with young innovator Borja Figueroa now at the helm of a stall first set up by his parents. He’s a whizz with dressings, brines and preparations. Take a pew, grab a cocktail stick and work your way through his 80-odd varieties of the small, rugby-ball-shaped snacks.
Calle San Jorge 6, 41010 Seville
Sherry
Even if you don’t make it as far as Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlúcar (and I highly recommend you do on a separate trip), you’ve got to try a drop of the local stuff your grandma got sozzled on every Christmas. Sherry (an anglicised version of Jerez) is a fortified wine with a storied past, a product of the historic solera system, in which blends of wines of different ages and vintages filter through a procession of barrels in cathedral-like bodegas to produce a steady supply of mature wine. Seville’s close proximity to el Triángulo de Jerez (Sherry Triangle) means an obsession with fortified wine is deeply ingrained in the Sevillian psyche. For more of a traditional setting, head to La Antigua Abacería (Calle Pureza 12, 41010 Seville; laantiguaabaceria.es) which can best be described as an old-fashioned grocery store cum bar and which, besides serving sherry straight from the barrel, is also one of the best tapas joints this side of the Guadalquivir. Back on the other side of the river is a personal fave – Salsamento Ultramarinos Bar (Calle Jerónimo Hernández 19; salsamento.com), which offers a more contemporary take on tapas-sherry fusions and attracts a well-heeled crowd.
Cerámica Santa Ana and Cerámica Triana
If you buy only one souvenir while exploring Triana, it’s got to be ceramic. The area is home to some of the city’s last-remaining authentic ceramic manufacturers, who proudly carry on a local tradition that dates back to Roman times. Cerámica Santa Ana (Calle San Jorge 31, 41010 Seville; ceramicasantaana.com) and Cerámica Triana (Calle Callao 14, 41010 Seville; ceramicatriana.com) are the pick of the bunch for scooping up wonderfully ornate, hand-painted dishes and bowls for Trianan-inspired tapas back home.
Bodeguita Antonio Romero
It’s not in Triana, but as you make your way back across the river, beat a path to Bodeguita Antonio Romero in El Arenal to feast on montaditos de pringá. Served piping hot and crispy straight from the panini press, these small sandwiches are crammed full of a mix of boiled meats dusted with paprika, with just the right amount of accompanying pork belly fat to coat your mouth for the next swig of cleansing Cruzcampo.
Calle Antonia Díaz 19, 41001 Seville; bodeguitasantonioromero.com
Lee Osborne, as well as being well-versed in the delights of the Iberian Peninsula, is creative director of Secret Trips
