Sutton and Sons, Islington
The definitive British fish and chip experience will always be about fighting off seagulls on the rainswept quay of an overcrowded seaside resort in half term. But for the rest of the year us Londoners have to make do with the city’s fine array of chippers, some old-school and vinegar-soaked, others a slightly bougie update on the original. For a stellar example of the latter, head to the Islington branch of Sutton and Sons for perfectly battered cod fillets and line-caught haddock. They also have a good range of options for vegans.
356 Essex Road, London N1 3PD; suttonandsons.co.uk
The Fryer’s Delight, Holborn
Among authentic London chippies, few are as easy on the eye as The Fryer’s Delight in Holborn. The retro interior hits all the high notes: leatherette banquettes, Formica tabletops, authentic mid-century typography, bountiful bottled malt vinegar. And the food lives up to the setting: its freshly fried haddock is a bargain at £8.50.
19 Theobalds Rd, London WC1X 8SL; thefryersdelight.co.uk
J Sheekey, Covent Garden
Unsurprisingly, central London’s grandest fish supper is to be found in its most storied fish restaurant. It has been turning out sublime seafood for the post-theatre crowd at “Sheekey’s” since 1896 and its fish and chips is on a par with its seafood platters: a fried fillet of haddock comes with caper-studded tartare sauce and creamy green mushy peas.
28-32 St Martin’s Court, London WC2N 4AL; j-sheekey.co.uk
Poppies, Soho
Named after its founder Pat “Pops” Newland, the Poppies mini chain takes old-school East End charm and marries it with retro ’70s-style interiors. In some regards, the menu closely resembles the fish suppers Pops was serving on the Roman Road in the 1960s: haddock and cod, jellied eels, mushy peas and Heinz beans but everything has been taken up a notch (and it’s unlikely, back in the day in Bethnal Green, that you would have been able to wash it down with a bottle of Chapel Down Brut).
55-59 Old Compton Street, London W1D 6HW; poppiesfishandchips.co.uk
Mayfair Chippy, Knightsbridge
This fish and chips, west London style. The beautifully designed space looks more like a classic European bistro with a black-and-white check floor and handsome bar – the only giveaway is the bottles of HP sauce on each table. Sure, they do oysters by the dozen and soft-shell crab burgers, but it’s kept its eyes on the prize when it comes to the signature fish and chip supper, which can come served with chip shop curry sauce, should you so desire.
138 Brompton Road, London SW3 1HY; mayfairchippy.com
The Audley Public House, Mayfair
The Audley doesn’t technically do classic fish suppers, but it does offer London’s finest take on the fish finger sandwich, which you can order with a side of chips for a near-as-dammit approximation of the real thing. It comes served with homemade tartare sauce and you get to eat in one of the city’s most charming pubs, so it makes the cut for us.
41-43 Mount Street, London W1K 2RX; theaudleypublichouse.com
David Annand is editorial director of Secret Trips
