There’s fantastic food all over Europe. But when it comes to lunch, Athens is hard to beat. The Greek capital has the produce, the people and the laid-back attitude that make eating here memorable – and belt-looseningly addictive. Here are six spots for your hit list.
Oikonomou Tavern
From your table, you’ll see pots. Lots of them. And vegetables, glistening in olive oil, and vats of steaming stews. So goes the experience of eating at Oikonomou, an opened-in-1930 Petralona spot with an open kitchen and a menu that has hardly changed for decades: it remains as authentically Greek as it gets. Drawings and paintings from locals and regulars line the walls, and there’s plenty of paper tablecloth for doodling. Order: chickpea stew, stewed onions, braised okra, taramasalata, horta and whatever roast – probably lamb – is on the cooker.
Kidantidon 32, Athina 118 51; @taverna.oikonomou
Dexameni
Set beside the historic Dexameni Square reservoir in Kolonaki, not far from the city centre, Dexameni feels like a foodie island slash kiosk where crooked green tables and bountiful sun keep spirits high and the belly full. It’s open from 10am, with lunchtime service from midday. After a long city walk, settle in with a café freddo, fresh beetroot, and a Cretan-leaning dish such as warm smoked herring with chickpeas – slow-cooked legumes meet savoury fish and sweet tomatoes in a fragrant, simple plate. No fuss, no leftovers, all bliss.
Plateia Dexamenis, Athina 106 73; @dexameni.kolonaki
Rantevou
Across the popular yet intimate Markouli Square in the Petralona neighbourhood lies Rantevou (pronounced like “rendezvous”), which has a young, lively scene day or night. Often full and thriving, the mezze joint serves perfectly grilled potatoes and Lebanese-inspired roasted cauliflower, a ravishing taramasalata and world-class falafel that can – and should – be enjoyed in a sandwich if you only have time for a quick lunch. Mezze, tsipouro, raki, music, low tables and golden light fill the space with a burst of nostalgic energy. To Rantevou With Love.
Svoura
Alongside purist nooks and crannies in the centre of Athens, there are also modern riffs on traditional cuisine that serve perfect lunchtime mouthfuls. Svoura is one of them. Light and modern, but with the classic wooden chairs and tables you’ll find at an old-school taverna, it slings authentic mezze – including a masterful fava dish, juicy grilled prawns and amaranth greens (which the Greeks call “vlita”), dressed in lemons and their generously grated zest. Savoury fish stews and well-sauced calamari dishes keep things novel, and while the menu changes often, the quality is always top-notch.
Drakou 8, Athina 117 42; @svoura_athens
Manári Taverna
Manári Taverna is a smart taverna with tablecloths, attentive service, shade from the heat and precision-grilling, celebrating whole animal butchery and 100 per cent local produce. It is perfect for lunch on the weekends – and it’s open daily for dinner. Look for the linguini in beef broth, whatever’s on the grill and the chunky tomato salad doused with olive oil. Big up the offal offering, especially the liver with lemon and capers and the pièce de résistance: lamb or mutton chops, priced by the kilo and eaten with your hands. Big yes.
Plateia Agion Theodoron 3, Athina 105 61; manaritaverna.com
Kafeneio Allios
Another vibey joint is Kafeneio Allios, a veritable hole-in-the-wall of goodness, served in a sleek suite of modern takes that diverges from the old, homely character of the Kypseli neighbourhood. Focusing on small bites, the place has relaxed energy that makes it double as a hangout. Meatballs, fries and flogeres (cheese rolls) are savoury staples, and the beetroot salad is fresh and friendly. While white dominates the interior, it contrasts the fundamentally Greek kafenio style of Formica-topped tables and terrazzo flooring – particularly great in summer as the place is full of natural light.
Kerkiras 17-19, Athina 113 62; @allios.kafeneio
Words: Billy De Luca
Billy De Luca is a freelance writer, editor and painter. De Luca’s focus is in the arts and culture spheres, contributing to publications including The Sydney Morning Herald, TimeOut, The Travel Almanac and Monster Children magazines
