Shamil and Kavi Thakrar: Mumbai’s best permit rooms

The Founders of Dishoom on where to drink and eat on the cheap in India’s buzzing metropolis

In 2010, cousins Shamil and Kavi Thakrar opened their first branch of Dishoom in Covent Garden. Inspired by the legendary Irani cafés of 1900s’ Bombay, the restaurant started a whole new chapter for London’s Indian restaurants, with its combination of breezy style, lightness of touch and bacon naan breakfasts (if you haven’t tried one – we suggest you drop everything and beat a path to your nearest branch). Since then, the chain has grown to include sites all over London and across the country, with restaurants in Birmingham, Edinburgh and Manchester, and spin-off Permit Rooms in Brighton, Cambridge and Oxford. We talked to the two co-founders about where they go for lo-fi food and drinks when they’re in Mumbai. 

Sunraj

Sunraj

Sunraj is a real hidden gem. Head upstairs and settle in for the night and you’ll be really well looked after. We like to keep it simple with ice-cold beers, paired with zingy peanut masalas and delicious fried snacks. Other favourites on the menu include the methi chicken, mutton biryani and crisp, golden surmai fry with a hefty squeeze of lime. 

Sunraj, 66 Chuim Village, Nargis Dutt Road, Dr BR Ambedkar Road, Khar, Mumbai

Janata

Janata

Janata is a super popular, simple, no fuss or frills kind of place. It’s always packed out with people from all walks of life. Cheap booze, delicious food, great company – what’s not to love? It’s easy to settle in for a night here with plate after plate of food. The many highlights of the menu include roast chicken chilli, prawns koliwada, pomfret gassi with neer dosa, and bombil fry – aka Bombay duck, which is a type of fish, not actual duck.

Janata, 78/A, Dr BR Ambedkar Road, Pali Mala Rd, Bandra West, Mumbai 

Americano

For a buzzy night out, head to the bar at Americano. It’s a great spot in Kala Ghoda, always packed with people and serving up a great mix of classics and creative cocktails. We can’t get enough of the Worli Bird – tequila, mezcal, passionfruit. It’s the perfect drink to kick off your night. If wine is more your thing, their list is stacked with European classics. There’s something for everyone.

Americano,121/123 Radha Bhavan, Nagindas Master Road, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai

Yacht

Yacht

End the night at Yacht. Order a quarter of hard liquor and your mixer of choice (you can’t go wrong with Old Monk and the Indian cola Thums Up, in our opinion!), and your server will mix however many drinks you’re in the mood for. Naturally, food is always at the centre of the table; their garlic fry is a real talking point – it’s literally a whole clove of fried garlic, designed to be eaten with a cube of cheese. Chicken lollipops are unmissable, along with kicha masala papad, squid chilli South-Indian style, chicken Chinese bhel, egg bhurji and Schezwan chicken tandoori. 

Yacht, 29 Hill Road, Bandra West, Mumbai

Try Shamil and Kavi’s food at one of their many restaurants: dishoom.com

David Annand is editorial director of Secret Trips

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