As the rising sun heralds the start of a new day, Bologna is awoken by its orange-tinted rays which illuminate the city’s red-tiled skyline. Its iconic porticoes, which stretch a spell-binding 50 kilometres across the metropolis, subsequently draw light and shadow which filters through the narrow streets of the medieval centre. The surrounding undulating hills create a natural barrier between the Po Valley and the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.
Bologna welcomed me many years ago. I was born and raised in Porto Potenza Picena in the neighbouring region of Le Marche, but I have lived in the Emilian capital since I joined Drapers, which specialises in the retail trade of the finest wools, cashmere, cotton, silks and linen fabrics, 17 years ago. I’m an early riser and like to keep in shape. I love nothing better than climbing on my racing bike and ascending the steep road which links Porta Saragozza, one of the gateways of the original medieval city walls, with the Sanctuary of San Luca – it extends for four kilometres with a section of porticoes boasting over 600 archways – which was awarded Unesco World Heritage Site status in 2021. Once at the top, it’s a vantage point that offers up privileged views of the entire city and its surrounding countryside. San Luca has not only served as a symbol of Bologna but as a place of religious worship for centuries.
On the way back, it is impossible not to stop for breakfast at Pasticceria Carosello (Via di Corticella, 184/8, 40128 Bologna) – the bakery, close to my home, fills the streets with the sweet scents of freshly baked bread and pastries every morning. While I’m a fan of all its cakes, my go-to is its torta di riso, a traditional cake made with rice and milk. It is fabulous.
At around noon I like to head to an old tavern along Via Ferrarese, a few kilometres from the city, which pampers my appetite with dishes from the best Bolognese tradition: La Trattoria del Gallo (Via Ferrarese, 1, 40013 Castel Maggiore; +39 051 765100). Here I feast upon some of the freshest pasta I know, from tagliatelle al ragù to lasagna and balanzoni, all handmade daily on the premises. The surrounding landscape is typical of the Po Valley with endless fields and rows of poplar trees.
In my free afternoons, I like to lose myself in the maze of narrow streets in the historical centre, which are still alive with artisanal spirit, still offering some of the finest manufacturing craftsmanship. The names of the streets themselves recall the ancient professions: via degli Orefici (jewellers), via delle Pescherie Vecchi (old fishmongers) and Via Calzolerie (shoemakers).
After a short walk, I find my myself in Piazza Santo Stefano, also known as the “square of the seven churches”. A proliferation of coffee shops offers the chance to sit outside and enjoy an aperitif while you watch the world go by.
At dinnertime I prefer the gourmet suggestions of Dante, head chef at one of my favourite restaurants, Papa Re (Piazza dell’Unità, 6c, 40129 Bologna; +39 051 35 61 20) – a cosy and welcoming trattoria close to Bologna Centrale train station, which offers specialities appreciated by those who love good traditional cuisine. Certainly the risotto mille e una notte and the gramigna alla salsiccia are among my favourite dishes there, either accompanied by a good glass of Sangiovese or a sparkling Lambrusco red from neighbouring Modena, always recommended by Dante.
It is important to remember that in Bologna, every occasion, every business meeting ends with the pleasures of the table – it’s not called “the Fat City” for nothing.
Follow Luca’s style journey on Instagram @lucamalat; drapersitaly.com
