Touching down on the famously short runway at Gustaf III Airport, I kick off every return to St Barths with a rush of adrenaline. From there, a seamless transfer to the island’s most iconic address: Eden Rock, St Barths. Perched above the curve of St-Jean Bay, the property blends heritage, personality and understated sophistication, with a side of cool. For added privacy, opt for one of the villas – they come with a private chef, butler and bespoke amenities.
The rhythm of the day is ruled by the sea in St Barths, soif tides permit, head to the natural pools at Grand Fond or Petit Cul-de-Sac. When conditions aren’t ideal, I’d recommend a guided trek along Les Crêtes, where sweeping island vistas make the upward hike more than worthwhile.
Eden Rock’s resident wellness expert Flavia hosts an oceanside yoga season most mornings, but for something less strenuous, the neighbouring Lorient Beach is a quiet, bohemian stretch perfect for a casual surf lesson, a swim or spotting turtles gliding through the shallows.
Lunch is a laid-back affair in St Barths. The Sand Bar, Eden Rock’s beachfront restaurant, is sublime, while just a short walk away is GypSea, a boho-chic spot known for grilled catch of the day and an impressive wine list. For a livelier scene, La Guérite Beach offers Mediterranean bites and a front-row seat to the beach-party vibe. By late morning on the weekends – especially on Sundays – Nikki Beach is in full swing. It’s unapologetically bougie, but the people-watching is unmatched.
Evenings in St Barths typically all end the same way – with dancing! But the journey to throwing shapes on tabletops is varied. As the sun begins to dip, Bonito in Gustavia is the place to begin the evening for cocktails and panoramic harbour views. Dinner reservations here are a hot commodity, so if you’re looking to dine, make a reservation far in advance.
When you’re in Gustavia for the evening, it makes the most sense to also charter a private catamaran for a dinner served alfresco in Colombier Bay. With golden-hour light, calm waters and gorgeous ships and yachts dotting the water, it’s always an unforgettable setting.
Alternatively for dinner, I love Sella’s bold Middle Eastern flavours and moody ambiance that transport me somewhere far beyond the island. Also great is a night at Le Tamarin, which offers a refined French-Caribbean cuisine beneath the stars in a lush garden setting. Either direction, the night will end on a high note. If I was in the mood for more, I’d stop by Bagatelle or Bar La Petite Plage to dance the night away.
But if I was saving my energy for Nikki Beach’s Sunday party, I’d call it an early night and retreat back to Eden Rock.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among others, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
