The Angel of the Vaccarès Farmhouse is the perfect place to stay if you want to immerse yourself in beauty. It’s an old Provençal farmhouse by the Vaccarès Pond, tastefully decorated by Sandrine, the owner, and offering a cosy, peaceful haven in the heart of the marshes. Here you can enjoy the beauty of wild ducks and pink flamingos. Take in the peaceful silence, the wind in the reeds, the soft light of the sunsets, and the shadows cast by ancient plane trees. It also serves a breathtaking breakfast!
And then balance the natural beauty by then decamping to the heart of Arles and the Art Deco hotel Arlatan. Designed by Jorge Pardo, this historic mansion has been transformed into a stunning mosaic masterpiece. Each room offers unique décor, enhanced by mesmerising mirror effects. The central staircase is itself a remarkable artwork – and don’t miss the vibrant red swimming pool: truly amazing!
For food, I’d highly recommend La Chassagnette, a Michelin-starred gem and a favourite of mine since it opened over a decade ago. I recommend visiting for lunch to fully appreciate its charm. After your meal, take a romantic stroll through the kitchen garden, where you’ll experience the scents of the fresh vegetables, flowers and herbs that grace the dishes created by chef Armand. The setting under the pergola is perfect for savouring the plant-based, creative cuisine, and the presentation adds to the experience. Don’t miss the famous cookies – ask for a doggy bag if you’re full; they’re exceptional! Due to its popularity and high prices, it’s essential to book well in advance.
Elsewhere, La Telline, located in the heart of the Camargue, offers a charmingly simple dining experience with red-and-white checkered tablecloths and a straightforward menu. The offerings include terrine, tellines (small shellfish), grilled meats or fish, cheese and dessert, all prepared deliciously. The restaurant’s family atmosphere is warm and generous, making it a unique dining destination. Personally, I can’t visit the Camargue without indulging in their tellines – a real treat!
There’s so much to visit. Top of the list has to be LUMA Arles and Le Parc des Ateliers. Visible from several kilometres, the LUMA tower, designed by Frank Gehry, is now part of the Arlesian landscape. It’s certainly worth the detour and the visit, but above all you simply must wander around the workshop park to discover the artists, creations and installations regularly offered on this creative campus under the leadership of Maja Hoffmann, the wonderful woman who transformed the city.
Don’t miss the beautiful Arènes (amphitheatres), especially when they’re lit up at night. As you walk slowly around them, feel the magic of these old stones, which give us a beautiful lesson in humility.
And in a similar spirit, take a trip to the Actes Sud bookstore on the banks of the Rhône,an institution for those who appreciate literature and words. It’s a journey to the heart of letters, and a moment out of time… which can last a long time…! What a pleasure to navigate among these books and the scents of their pages, and to exchange with the staff who, unlike many booksellers, have read the books they recommend.
Have a drink at the Nord-Pinus hotel and stroll through the bar (don’t miss the restrooms!) to discover the exceptional history of this hotel, popular with artists and matadors.
A little shopping? In the centre of Arles, you will find many artisans and concept stores offering products from the South – including the famous Camargue boots! Worth buying.
Lysanne Currie is editor-in-chief of Meet the Leader. She also writes for Robb Report, Diplomat, Guardian, Influence, Tempus and Investor
