Laos is a wonderful country with terrible roads. Motorcyclists can weave and dodge the deep ruts and holes, but it’s very dusty. Hiking is limited because there’s unexploded ordinance all over the place – the rule is never to walk where someone hasn’t already. The rivers, however, are beautiful, serene and safe. Travelling by boat along the waterways you get to watch the world go by and it’s a peaceful, authentic way to see the country.
We started in Luang Prabang, the country’s former capital. It’s a gem of city, full of charming French colonial architecture, lovely restaurants and cafés, as well as fancy places to stay including an Aman and a Rosewood. Away from the high-end hotels, it’s still a very affordable place to visit. An hour-long reflexology foot massage might set you back all of $6. We stayed at Maison Dalabua, which was lovely.
From Luang Prabang you can cruise along the Mekong enjoying sundowners or take daytrips to visit temples and waterfalls. We chose to venture farther afield and go on an overnight safari on the Nam Nern River in the remote northeast of the country. The Nam Et-Phou Louey National Park is a devil to get to, but well worth it.
The safari organisers picked us up and we drove – agonisingly slowly – to a tiny village where we boarded a flat-bottomed longboat and headed upstream into the wilderness. There was a guy in the back managing a motor, and a man up front with two bamboo sticks, steering and pushing the boat along. An hour and a half later, we reached the campsite. It’s very traditional and very basic. Everything is carry-in, carry-out. Nothing gets left behind and it’s genuinely eco-friendly. The beds are in wooden huts on stilts, which can get quite cold, so do bring a hot water bottle or a bedmate to cuddle up to. During the Vietnam War, Laos was heavily bombed by the CIA, and we were given a little walking tour of the area – now cleared of unexploded ordinance – to get a sense of the impact of the bombing campaign.
From the camp, we jumped back on the boat and headed deeper into the forest for a couple of hours before stopping at a clearing for a sunset barbecue on the shore. While the crew prepared the meal, we enjoyed a swim. If you’re so inclined, you might bring a bottle of tequila and some limes. The guides will happily make a bar out of banana leaves and provide some tin cups so you can drink your cocktails while the sun sets.
Nancy’s trip was booked via Signature Nam Nern River Safari
