When the winter chill sets in, there’s nothing quite as comforting as a pot of melted cheese shared among friends. Fondue is cosy, indulgent and interactive, transforming any meal into a warm, shared experience. Fondue originated in the Swiss Alps, where rural communities used it as a way to make use of aging cheese and bread during long, cold winters. Traditionally made with Swiss cheeses such as gruyère and emmental, fondue is perfect for chilly London nights, it brings everyone together and has evolved into a global favourite, blending a simple, rustic tradition with a sense of pure indulgence.
St Moritz, Soho
The OG of Swiss cuisine in London, stepping into St Moritz is like time-travelling to an alpine hut in the Swiss alps, quite the transition from the chaos of Wardour Street in London’s Soho. When we say, “Swiss cuisine”, we of course mean fondue, the unctuous pot of melted cheese that can be traced back to the first known recipe in 1699. St Moritz serves a classic “neuchâteloise” fondue with Swiss gruyère and emmental cheeses, along with other variations such as the “moitié-moitié” with vacherin and potatoes. We suggest an Uber home because you’re not walking anywhere after that.
La Fromagerie, Marylebone
A haven for cheese lovers, the upmarket La Fromagerie in Marylebone has been serving up locals and visitors alike with some of the world’s best cheeses ever since it opened its doors in 2002. La Fromagerie offers fondue savoyarde and raclette comtoise all year round, with the vacherin du haut-doubs seasonally available from October to March. It’s a private booking thing, so gather together a bunch of your favourite cheeseheads and indulge in possibly the finest fondue you’ll find at sea level.
The Cheese Bar, Camden
Tucked away in the Camden Stables Market, The Cheese Bar hosts fondue nights every Thursday from November through to March. What makes The Cheese Bar different is its exclusive use of British cheeses, so you get a different twist on the classic Swiss version. It’s a super laid-back setting and perfect for small groups. Then, with a belly full of molten cheese, you can spill out into Camden and raise merry hell. Or sit down on a bench and wait for your food to digest before rolling home. Up to you.
Champagne + Fromage, Greenwich
If you’re southeast of the river, or perhaps work in the city, then you’ll want to head to the succinctly named Champagne + Fromage for, you guessed it, champagne and cheese. This small but perfectly formed French slice of gourmandising is open Tuesday through Sunday and offers some of the finest Gallic grub and tipples money can buy. Besides a bubbling pot of mont d’or, it also has a magnifique raclette menu that’s well worth fasting for a few days beforehand.
Swiss Bread Bakery & Cafe, Ham
When you find yourself way out west this winter, may we suggest you get yourselves to the award-winning Swiss Bread Bakery & Cafe? This quaint, laid-back spot in Richmond brings an authentic slice of Switzerland to the upmarket ’burbs, courtesy of their traditional fondue, crafted with imported Swiss cheeses and served with freshly baked bread. Owners Andre and Tanja (from Zurich and Bern respectively) spent their early careers working for some of the world’s most famous hotels and restaurants, so the menus here have serious pedigree.
Le Vieux Comptoir, Marylebone
Another fantastic French bistro tucked away in Marylebone on Moxon Street, this locals’ favourite is something of a hidden gem, but if you’re in the mood for fondue, it’s an absolute must-visit. It’s quaint, cutesy and unapologetically French (but we can confirm the waiters are not surly in the slightest!). The fondue savoyarde is a dreamy cauldron of calorific bliss, too – best washed down with some excellent champagne.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among other publications, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
