The entrance to the very first five-star gastronomy hotel to open in Athens, while smart, is unassuming. A modest reception by hotel standards, small but perfectly formed, perhaps intentionally devised so that your eyes are immediately drawn to the glass window to your left –which gives the first glimpse of its pièce de résistance, the world-renowned restaurant Estiatorio Milos. Usually, it’s hotel first and restaurant second, but you feel here it’s a role reversal: restaurant with rooms.
But first the hotel. I’m handed a welcome glass of ice-cold water and a honey-infused sesame seed bar as I make my way to the cooler climes of my airconditioned room – it’s mid-July and the mercury is already touching 37 degrees – extreme temperatures are not uncommon in Athens, of course, but my visit happens to coincide with the hottest summer ever recorded.
There’s a common thread running through the hotel’s brand ethos as well as its interior design; the concept of philoxenia – the sacred art of making a stranger feel at home – is reflected in the property’s meticulous attention to detail and individuality within each space. Stylish neutral interiors (think cool white, grey and beige pantone hues), expansive windows and herringbone parquet floors are all a nod to the hotel’s Greek revivalist influences. Rooms are spacious, design-conscious, high-ceilinged affairs, and my Milos Terrace Room on the top floor, one of 42 individually styled rooms and suites, featuring a supremely comfortable Simmons luxury mattress king size bed, is no exception. Expansive terraces afford panoramic views of the historic Old Parliament House below and the constant hive of activity emanating around Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in central Athens – which feels so close you could almost reach out and touch it. A rainforest power-shower-equipped marble bathroom and soundproof windows provide added privacy.
The Restaurant Experience
‘Our philosophy is simple. We are devoted to cooking fish perfectly. It is our life’s work. Ingredients are everything, the focus and foundation of our cuisine,’ says the restaurant’s literature. Costas Spiliadis, the founder of Estiatorio Milos, had immigrated from Greece and opened a small restaurant in Montreal, eventually turning it into an iconic New York seafood spot. So successful was Estiatorio Milos that it expanded to a further six destinations around the globe, before finally returning to its roots in Athens, some four decades later. Offering Mediterranean dishes cooked with precision and minimal interference, using only the finest quality products and ingredients, gallivanting gourmands are sure to be impressed. If ever there was an excuse to don your finest glad rags, it’s here. A sea of white and ecru minimalism sets a rather serene scene: guests dine beneath a giant fishing-net canopy suspended from the ceiling, with spotlights cleverly concealed within oyster shells. A stunning mezzanine-level wine and oyster bar peers down onto the main dining room below, where punters feast upon some of the finest seafood in the world. I’m struck by an overriding feeling of unpretentiousness, which prevails from the decor right down to the waiting staff who are extremely welcoming, knowledgeable and masters of discretion.
For those of an R&R persuasion, the hotel’s sirenic spa suite, which reflects the values of evexia – the Greek term for wellbeing – utilises the finest Elemis skincare products for invigoratingly restorative massages, facials and treatments. A little tip while you’re there: the moist heat of the steam room is a great antidote to weary limbs for those who’ve dared to hike up to the Acropolis and back.
The property is keen to showcase Athens as a beach destination people might not often think of. It not only arranges relaxing away-days on the Athenian Riviera including lunch at the über-cool Dot Beach Vibes, but nautical-loving guests can also charter Milos on Sea, the restaurant’s very own private yacht, and feast on the fruits of the ocean as your captain navigates the mythical Greek islands.
Xenodocheio Milos is ideally placed to make most of the city’s main attractions walkable. Whether that’s exploring the local vicinity – Syntagma Square is a five-minute stroll away to observe the city’s iconic changing of the guard ceremonies at the Presidential Mansion; or descend upon Stoa Bolani arcade for cocktails, buzzy Monastiraki and the enchanting, sinewy lanes of Plaka, which lie in the shadow of the Acropolis, both just a 20-minute walk.
Rooms from around £200 per night based on two sharing, including breakfast; Kolokotroni 3-5, Athina 105 62, Greece; xenodocheiomilos.com
Lee Osborne is creative director of Secret Trips
