Set among Kyoto’s historic antique shops, art galleries and craftsmen workshops is The Shinmonzen – a boutique design hotel that quietly blends in with the surrounding machiya-style façades of its neighbours (despite opening in 2022). The hotel is the brainchild of legendary hotelier Paddy McKillen – of Claridge’s, The Savoy and Provence’s Château La Coste fame – who wanted to create a property that was as much a cossetted sanctuary and escape as it is fully in tune with its neighbours.
To achieve this, McKillen enlisted the vision of the famously reclusive Japanese architect Tadao Ando. After entering the nine-suite property, guests are met with a long corridor – a signature of high-toned Kyoto establishments that creates a sense of journey and procession – hung with works from household names in contemporary art like Damien Hirst, Louise Bourgeois and Hiroshi Sugimoto, not to mention a fine-dining restaurant by chef extraordinaire Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
Even before check-in, you feel the spirit of The Shinmonzen and its immersion of contrasts: a serene blend of past and present; Kyoto’s touristy buzz and kitsch against calm, quietude and refined elegance.
Japan observers will spot The Shinmonzen’s nods to the classic Japanese ryokan inn – i.e. tatami mats, the signature separation between living and bedroom spaces, a stocked library and lounge spaces for enjoying sake and tea.
Another key inspiration is omotenashi – a hospitality ethos rooted in respect and the utmost care and attention to detail, where the “guest is god”. At The Shinmonzen, you’re not addressed with the typical Japanese “san” salutation but the much more deferential “sama”. Your stay comes with complimentary laundry, and a fully stocked minibar and Japanese snacks. Upon returning to my room after a day of sightseeing, I was met with a hinoki cypress bath and my laptop resting on its own mini cotton mat.
Although technically falling within Kyoto’s famed Gion district, the property feels removed from the bustling Hanakoji tourist area, where pavement-pounding temple-goers and geisha gawkers delight in souvenirs of tiny ceramics and lucky cats, queue for ramen and mocha establishments, and pilgrimage to the Studio Ghibli boutique.
Instead, The Shinmonzen takes after its namesake road, which means “new street in front of the gate”. This street is notably steeped in art and craft; antique shops and art galleries sit alongside a traditional mask maker and Michelin-starred fare – all of which guests can further deep-dive into thanks to the hotel’s bespoke walking tours themed around local art and culture.
Another part of that immersion is The Shinmonzen’s special placement on the river, which can be enjoyed from the terrace in all nine suites (each one of which is named after a natural element, i.e. ishi (rock) or washi (paper), and echoing the hotel’s grounded nature). Also overlooking the river is the Ogata tea service, a modern interpretation of the Japanese tea house beloved by both guests and visitors. The boutique stocks teas, confectionary and crafts, while the menu suggests on the best brews depending on the time of day.
Finally, not to be missed is the stunning Jean-Georges restaurant, opened a year after the hotel. Here, modern French cuisine meets local Japanese ingredients – think Hokkaido scallop ceviche with rhubarb and kotoka strawberries – and a striking Tia-Thuy Nguyen piece is hung alongside tatami screens. The restaurant is a beautiful addition to Kyoto’s Michelin-starred kaiseki, sushi and ramen offerings – and is fast becoming a destination in its own right.
235 Nishinocho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0088, Japan; theshinmonzen.com
Ming Liu is a London-based luxury and lifestyle writer who contributes to the Financial Times, HTSI and The New York Times, as well as Vanity Fair, Tatler and British Vogue
