Sitting at breakfast on the elevated terrace at Sandblu, Santorini’s newest 5* hotel built into the foothills of the scorched Thira mountain, one is struck by a tangible sense of tranquility. The eye is drawn to the sparkling Aegean sea, which appears to kiss the lip of the infinity pool just a few feet away from my table. Sailing boats bisect the smooth channel of water that separates this eastern section of coastline from Anafi, a smaller Cycladic island bathing in the distant morning light. Poached eggs, a hint of thyme in the olive oil, a newspaper, strong coffee, an appointment booked in the spa, and the Aegean offering up a Grecian idyll. Could be worse.
Santorini, or Thera as it used to be known in ancient Greece, has had a tumultuous past although you wouldn’t think it from where I’m sitting. Once the home of the ancient Minoan civilisation, remains and artifacts of which can be seen at the ancient ruins of Akrotiri, it has passed through the hands of many a different ruling power, from the Phoenecians and Romans to the Venetians and the Ottomans, prized as an important trade port between Africa, Europe, and Eurasia. But it’s Thera’s geological history that draws so many people to the island, and its famous caldera, the subaquatic crater formed by the collapsing of the volcano. The Minoans bore the brunt of geological fate around 1600 BC when Thera was literally blown sky high. Scientists believe that thousands of years of ash deposits blocked the fissures and outlets that would ordinarily release the build up of pressure. The consequence was that magma surged up through the centre of the island, blowing the lid off of it. As the magma drained out, the weight of matter was too much and the volcano collapsed in on itself, causing sulfuric mists, clouds of ash, and 150ft tsunamis that wreaked havoc on Crete further south and much of the Mediterranean. This is thought to have inspired Plato to write about the lost city of Atlantis.
Back to my poached eggs, which were truly sublime. But seriously, modern day Santorini has become a tourist haven because of its volcanic history. The caldera at sunset from atop the layered cliffs at Oia is unlike any other place in the world. The rim of the crater casts long dark shadows across the water as hundreds of visitors attempt to capture the moment high above, happily oblivious to the seismic history and natural power deep beneath their feet. The island’s past is a timely reminder of the fleeting nature of life and the importance of living fully and in the now, something that the new Sandblu hotel has managed to capture in the way it has curated a moment of luxurious peace, indulgence, and Grecian experience. With Mesa Vouno (Thira mountain) just over one’s shoulder, there is a sense that this sprawling white-washed enclave of immaculately appointed suites and villas is safely cocooned from the island’s seismic past. The hotel staff, dressed in what I can only describe as ‘if Brunello Cucinelli did Greek Myth’ gracefully glide from guest to guest, beautiful conduits of glasses of bone dry Assyrtiko wine and expertly crafted signature cocktails, all of which go down rather too easily. For a hotel that had only been open for two months, everything ran like clockwork.
The accommodation is a blend of well-sized state-of-the-art rooms and private villas with plunge pools, beautifully decked out in a modern Greek aesthetic with white-washed interiors punctuated with accents of pastel blues, greys, and wood details, and just a hint of mid-century styling in the furniture. When the sun is relentless (and Santorini peak summer takes no prisoners), Sandblu’s rooms are a cool and comforting haven.
It’s clear from the outset, that Sandblu has zeroed in on its local cuisine as a selling point, an observation made fact when I stepped on the scales at home to find that I had smuggled back 3kg of waistline. The Apnea restaurant offers sublime Greek and Mediterranean dishes such as blue crab with melon and bergamot, and poached sea bream served in a traditional avgolemono sauce (a tangy jus made from eggs, lemon and broth). Plateia, at the main pool terrace, is where breakfast and lunch happens, both of which are not to be rushed. Traditional dishes such as strapatsada and marathopita compete with modern Mediterranean creativity in plates such as crayfish “Giouvetsi” orzo pasta from Mount Taygetus, and white grouper fillet served with celeriac risotto, asparagus, and lemon sauce. Even the bread and olives are like crack cocaine.
The island’s biggest export is its wine, namely the Vinsanto, but more recently its minerally white wines (both of which are made with the Assyrtiko grape) are also earning plaudits. The hotel offers a brilliant wine-tasting session with the in-house sommeliers who really do know their stuff about local viniculture and history. The Vinsanto has something like religious status in Santorini, they are that proud of it, but it’s not hard to see why. Syrupy sweetness with intense layers of apricot, caramel, and bergamot are the perfect notes to complement a cheeky baklava or a kataïfi tart. When in Rome…
If you’re the fidgety type who quickly gets bored of private plunge pools, great wine on tap, stunning views, and world-class cuisine, then fear not because the brilliant reception team at Sandblu are more than happy to organise a sailing or yachting trip to take you into the caldera. Alternatively, horse-riding is also popular, cantering along the black sand beaches providing an unforgettable experience. But if you translate ‘working up a sweat’ to mean sitting in a sauna, then you’ll want to make a beeline for the hotel’s Aurora spa, where customisable premium treatments using 111SKIN and ESPA products await. I had the most blissful deep tissue massage before passing out on a lounger beside the spa pool, with the most sublime view of Anafi in the distance. One of the therapists had to wake me for dinner. Life is cruel.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer whose work has appeared in, among others, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
