Unlike Laos’s administrative capital, Vientiane, which has a more utilitarian, urban vibe, Luang Prabang – the ancient former royal capital – retains an old-world colonial charm that speaks of the age of the Lan Xang kings and French Indochina. It’s also the crossroads for the numerous ethnic groups that form the nation including the Lao and Hmong and Khmu minorities, which all have their own distinct customs, dress style and cuisine, that have left their mark on the town.
The surfeit of gilded temples, stupas and Buddhas, rich culinary traditions and era-defining architecture has earned Luang Prabang Unesco status. This accolade means you’re spoilt for choice for accommodation options, whether you’re on a shoestring or after something a little more glossy. The Avani +, which sits at the higher end of the scale, has long been Luang Prabang’s drawing room, from when it served as a hub for French colonial administration and later as the Phousi Hotel – named after the sacred hill that overlooks the town – and is the most storied hotel in town.
Its locale – directly opposite the site of the night market on the main thoroughfare that runs through the heart of the old town, Sisavangvong Road – makes it the ideal base to explore the town’s architectural and cultural treasures on foot, or on one of the hotel’s ready-to-ride bicycles. In the evening, the night market bursts into life in a haze of charcoal smoke, clamour and colour, with hawkers dishing up traditional Lao street food classics and savoury and sweet favourites from the Southeast Asian table and further afield.
Having had its foundation stone laid in 1914 to serve as a hub for the French Imperial Forces, the restored and extended building retains much of its Gallic colonial charm. It has whitewashed walls, traditional clay-tiled rooftops and teak-pillared verandas of the sort that William Somerset Maugham and Rudyard Kipling would have whiled away the sultry evenings on in decades past, a gin and bitters in hand.
At the centre of the large, central courtyard is the star attraction, the 82ft pool – which is one of the largest in town. It’s the perfect spot to cool off with a skilfully mixed libation after a day of exploring the gilded temples, indigenous craft stores and lush riverside, while listening to the rhythmic Buddhist mantras and bells that drift over the wall from the neighbouring Wat Hosian Voravihane temple.
The 53 guest rooms all have balconies or terraces and are equipped with all the modern bells and whistles you’d expect from a leading five-star establishment, with local-made furnishings and colonial flourishes adding style and substance to the rooms.
Breakfast is an indulgent affair, with a noodle station serving up Lao Khao Piak Sen (chicken soup noodles), a full buffet selection of both Asian and European savoury and sweet options, eggs cooked to order any way you like and ripe-for-the eating local fruits. It’s served at the hotel’s gastronomic hub – the Main Street Bar & Grill – which also serves up signature Lao dishes and international options for lunch and dinner. The emphasis here is on the use of local ingredients sourced from farmers and fisherman that employ organic, sustainable methods to grow their produce and land their catch. The upper terrace and veranda at street level are particularly scenic perches to observe the hubbub of life in the town, from street vendors peddling their wares numerous scooters and tuk tuks that buzz around the streets.
The Avani+ is also on the route for the traditional alms giving to the local monks, who, swathed in their distinctive turmeric-orange robes, pass by the hotel barefoot as the sun begins to rise, to have their copper bowls filled with rice by both locals and visitors. Guests are welcome to take part in the sacred custom – but be prepared for an early start.
And if waking before the crack of dawn gets the better of you by the end of the day, you can always drop in to the spa, where a full range of treatments is available, including the traditional Lao massage, which uses a combination of rhythmic acupressure, gentle stretching and relaxation techniques.
One of the major ace cards of a stay at the Avani+ is its relationship with sister company, Mekong Kingdoms, the leading operators of river cruises in the region. Sunset cruises along the Mekong, as well as visits to the sacred Pak Ou Caves – only accessible by boat – with its more than 4,000 icons of Buddha, can all be arranged by the hotel. Its newest addition to the river exploration portfolio is its cross-country river cruise. The six-day, five-night cruise that starts with a stay at the Avani+ Luang Prabang, before its largest and newest vessel, the Bohème, takes visitors in well-appointed suites the length of the Mekong up to the capital, Vientiane, stopping at key cultural landmarks on the way.
With its unrivalled position, nostalgic air, home comforts and keen-as-mustard staff who are clearly eager to show off the merits of their hometown, it really feels like a home-away-from home. The hard part is packing to head back to the real world.
Avani+ Luang Prabang, Deluxe Rooms from £140 per night, including breakfast; avanihotels.com
Shane C Kurup is a London-based editor and writer specialising in fashion, horology and lifestyle content
