Soho, that teeming maze of London’s once insalubrious heart, has long been a crucible for the city’s liquid revelries. Since the 17th century, when it was a haven for Huguenot refugees and their covert taverns, Soho has distilled a legacy of seedy indulgence – although a rather contentious clean-up in recent decades has seen it don more polished togs.
The 19th century brought gin palaces and bohemian haunts, while the 20th saw it morph into a neon-lit playground for artists, writers and night owls – think Dylan Thomas staggering between pubs, or Francis Bacon holding court at the French House. This is a place where history (and with it, plenty of vomit) seeps into the cobblestones, where every alley and well-trodden street whispers of excess and invention.
What could be easier, then, than running a bar in a place where the demand for inebriation always teeters on outstripping the suppliers of good liquor? Well, quite a lot of things actually, because to make it in Soho, you have to be consistently good at what you do. The turnover rate for bars is high, so you’d better get it right – and quickly.
Opened in March 2024 by the indefatigable Venning brothers, Max and Noel, Three Sheets Soho has done an excellent job of becoming part of the storied furniture. Most thirsty Londoners will tell you that despite the quantity of bars in Soho, the really good ones are quite hard to come by without a member’s card, or the foresight to book weeks in advance (try getting into Bar Swift on Old Compton Street without a reservation Thursday-Saturday), but in Three Sheets we’ve got another exemplary watering hole.
Following the acclaimed Dalston original, which has rooted itself on the World’s 50 Best Bars list for five years running, the Soho outpost lurks somewhat clandestinely on Manette Street (named after the character in Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities), linking Charing Cross to Greek Street. The street was once a meeting place for 18th-century anarchists, but it attracts more rule-abiding sorts these days.
You can easily miss Three Sheets. It takes a measured squint to see what’s going on behind the small glass-fronted aperture, wherein Max, a veteran in the hospitality trade, brings a pedigree that includes stints at 69 Colebrooke Row and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. Inside, drinkers are coerced into the cosy proximity that all great bars foster, allowing for anyone at any time and from any angle to overhear and join in on a conversation. It feels both intimate and ambitious, a sanctuary where the art of the cocktail is elevated to a quiet triumph.
On my last visit, I kicked off proceedings with their version of a paloma, a delightful quaff composed of Volcan tequila, Mexican oregano, verbena berry, coriander and grapefruit soda. My wing woman, an American of ill-repute, naturally veered towards the dirty martini, which afforded her a pair of raised eyebrows given the addition of Koseret tea, olive oil and Picpoul. Nevertheless, it was gulped down and another ordered. I slid into round two on the back of a cherry Americano which, much like myself, revealed the perfect balance of the sweet and the bitter. Drinks were escorted by what I’ve come to realise is every great cocktail’s sidecar, the salt beef bun. Delish.
It should by now be apparent that I like Three Sheets. The space itself is a masterstroke of understated elegance – dark tones and a green-hued backdrop frame a bar adorned with an arsenal of artisanal spirits, while the J-shaped marble counter creates a theatre-like aspect. The menu, a testament to seasonal ingenuity, showcases a rotating roster of drinks that push the boundaries of liquid alchemy. The service is impeccable, the atmosphere a seductive balance of warmth and sophistication and the cocktails are revelations, each sip a dialogue between tradition and audacity.
This is no brash newcomer; it is a bar that understands Soho’s soul, offering a discreet haven for those who seek the extraordinary without fanfare. Three Sheets Soho cements the Vennings’ status as luminaries in a district that thrives on – no, demands – brilliance.
