Bar of the month: Nipperkin, London

Tucked beneath the chic Nijū restaurant at 20 Berkeley Street, Nipperkin is Mayfair’s best-kept secret – a subterranean speakeasy blending English charm with Japanese finesse. From its evocative name, rooted in an archaic English term for a small measure of liquor, to its expertly crafted cocktails and cosy ambiance, Nipperkin offers a unique escape in the heart of London.

Once part of 20 Berkeley, a British produce-led venture, this cocktail haven has seamlessly transitioned into the Japanese-inspired world of Nijū, retaining its charm while embracing a new identity. Nipperkin offers a cosy retreat from the bustle of London, drawing from 1950s Japanese listening rooms – seen in its warm, immersive atmosphere where vintage records and soulful tunes set the tone.

The name “Nipperkin” once meant a small measure of liquor, typically less than half a pint, evoking a sense of quaint tradition that pairs beautifully with the bar’s innovative ethos. Helmed by award-winning mixologist Angelos Bafas (who, by the way, will release his debut book Hyper Drinks this spring), the cocktail menu is a seasonal symphony, divided into themes like “Prep” and “Lean”, showcasing British and Japanese influences. Standouts include the umami-rich Ramson martini with truffles and wild garlic, or the Meech’s Quince & Beeswax, a velvety whiskey concoction with a honeyed finish. Each drink is crafted with meticulous care, reflecting the Japanese principle of omotenashi –heartfelt hospitality.

The space itself, designed by Pirajean Lees, feels like a snug English manor meets Tokyo hideaway, with rich wood, red velvet seating, and a central island bar that invites closeness to the action. Generous bar snacks like Wagyu korokke elevate the experience, making it more than just a drinking den. Compared to Mayfair’s glitzier haunts, Nipperkin’s understated elegance is refreshing, though its intimate size – fitting only about 20 – means booking ahead is wise. A visit here is a masterclass in balance: heritage and innovation, warmth and precision, all poured into a nipperkin-sized glass of perfection.

To reserve a spot at Nipperkin, head to nijulondon.com/nipperkin/

For more sensational London bars and the best cocktails around the world, check out our Bar of the Month compendium here

Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among others, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman

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