Three French men walk into Soho, London, and decide to open an Italian restaurant. Heresy! What sorcery is this? Well, London being the cultural melting pot that it is, anything goes, especially in Soho. Daroco is its name, and said French men involved are founders Alexandre Giesbert, Julien Ross, and Nico de Soto. One could say the concept is a bit of a gamble, but this Gallic trio have previous, and good previous at that, having opened two vibrant restaurants and a lively cocktail bar in the buzzy 2nd and 16th arrondissements of Paris. Daroco, taking pride of place on the corner of St. James’ Place and Manette Street, is a little over a year old, and has successfully brought its signature blend of offbeat Parisian flair and warm Italian hospitality to the area. Tucked away off Charing Cross Road, it feels like a secret little oasis and a bridge into the chaos of Soho. Inside, the vibe is that of a contemporary trattoria, with a sexy mirrored ceiling replaying everything below. Every culinary creation, from pasta to pizza, bread to homemade ice cream, is lovingly handcrafted in-house, featuring ingredients sourced from the rich soils of Calabria to the picturesque landscapes of Emilia-Romagna and is designed to foster a shared culinary experience at its core (as well as utter chaos thanks to the bottomless brunches at the weekend).
The food is fantastic, with classics such as Cacio e Pepe and vitello alla Milanese, as well as more modern iterations such as sea bass carpaccio and pear and gorgonzola pizza. This writer was blown away by the admittedly naughty Filetto Lardato – a cured pork fillet wrapped in lardo from Martina in France, followed up by the wild sea bass with roasted tomatoes, olives and Carosello cucumber salad.
As good as every morsel is, the restaurant’s interior is its match, meticulously crafted by chief architect Olivier Delannoy, whose portfolio includes notable projects like Dépot Légal and YAYA in Paris. With sumptuous marble tabletops, inviting wooden countertops, and gleaming brass fixtures throughout, as well as a very ornate pizza oven, the restaurant feels akin to a theatrical experience. With a large outdoor terrace that will be buzzing in the summer, Daroco is a fantastic spot to break from the crowds and refuel in the best way possible.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among others, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
