Barcelona is a patchwork city, its wildly different neighbourhoods neatly stitched together at the end of the 19th century when the city’s huge grid extension was built linking the Gothic quarter to pre-existing villages to its north and east. Of the villages that got absorbed into the city, the one that has retained the fiercest sense of itself is Gràcia, with its close-quartered streets, anarchist inclinations and surfeit of great places to eat and drink.
For the latter, head to Missa, which is just the kind of neighbourhood bar that everyone wants: beautifully designed, light on the wallet, full of atmosphere and stacked with good things to drink. The beer is a big draw – think local wild ales and artisanal bitters from Sardinia – but there are also natural wines on tap for a princely €3.50 a glass. If it’s not too busy the guys behind the bar will wander out with a complimentary bowl of salted nuts. And there’s a charming bar-top fridge with more substantial snacks: pickled chillies, boquerones or a €2 bowl of olives.
The layout is tight and squeezy in the standing area by the bar, but there are tables at the back at which you could read and write when it’s quiet, and think romantic thoughts about your life.
Bar Missa, Carrer de Jesús, 16, Gràcia, 08012 Barcelona
David Annand is editorial director of Secret Trips
