Stuck-in time charm, car-free streets, 500-year-old wooden chalets housing contemporary five-star accommodation and Michelin-star restaurants, Zermatt exudes a special magic and majesty. The alpine village attracts visitors all year round, who take in Zermatt by foot – thanks to a rule where only special electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages are allowed – and who come for the Matterhorn, the imposing pyramid-shaped peak behind every bar of Toblerone.
Eat early
Europe’s highest ski area, Zermatt entices winter sports fans the world over, with 360km of pistes coolly connected through a network of tramways, chair lifts and ski lifts. The best spots for lunch are undoubtedly on the mountain – ski-in, naturally, but also easily accessible by foot. Chez Vrony is the place to see and be seen (matched only by the magnificent views of the Matterhorn from its sprawling, sun-drenched terrace). It also embodies the family-run spirit of so many Zermatt establishments: proprietor Veronica is the third generation in the family to run the lunch-only restaurant, which started as a small mountain hut surround by sheep and chamois. Other piste-side must-stops are Blatten and Zum See, just a snowball’s throw from each other off the Furi lift, and which serve up variations galore on alpine favourites – rösti, raclette and fondue – all washed down with an excellent wine list.
Eat late
Zermatt’s rich choice of cuisine no doubt reflects its clientele that come from far and wide. Whymper Stube, named after Englishman Edward Whymper, who first scaled the Matterhorn in 1865, offers the best fondue in town, its decor channelling rustic, cosy charm. Most popular is the Cheese Fondue “Hausart”, accented with pear, or there’s the broth-based Chinoise for any carnivores in your party. Italian is a universal favourite and Da Nico is hands-down the winner here, famed for its pizza and friendly staff, but book at least a month in advance as walk-ins are impossible. If you can’t get into Da Nico, Grampi’s upstairs on the main Bahnhofstrasse offers cheap and cheerful, authentic Italian fare, and is always buzzy and fun. For more off-beat options with a side of theatre, 1818 Eat & Drink’s concept is South American street food to share, with bar-side seating that overlooks an impressive kitchen. The teppanyaki and sushi house Myoko, complete with a terraced Japanese-style entrance, mixes things up.
Drink
Work hard, play hard certainly applies to Zermatt, whether you spent the day pounding the pistes, snow-shoe trekking through tiny hamlets or mountain biking the area’s 200km of trails. In winter, the piste-side Hennu Stall is the compulsory après ski pitstop, complete with a retractable roof and DJ spinning the cheesiest alpine favourites, with ski gear and boots mandatory. Over in Sunnegga, Cervo’s après ski bar is literally at the end of the last cat-track and where visitors toast a day’s skiing with piping gluhwein, Jägerbombs and a live band. Heading back into the village is the perfectly placed Harry’s Bar, on the corner of Hinterdorfstrasse and Bachstrasse, where it would be rude not to pop in for one-for-the-road. Post dinner, Mamacita delivers high-octane atmos and live bands for rowdy feel-good singalongs, while Broken Bar, just opposite in the Post Hotel, is all club and cocktail vibes. Just don’t go before midnight (or be put off by the name).
Shop
The Bahnhofstrasse thoroughfare is the bustling heart of the village, where luxury boutiques share space with ski and souvenir shops, all housed in picturesque, 500-year-old wooden houses. Lorenz Bach is the Swiss purveyor of eclectic alpine and après ski fashion, and his newly expanded space on Bahnhofstrasse has just opened. The pieces here are sportier and more relaxed than at the Gstaad mothership (think sumptuous cashmere gilets and knitwear versus Austrian loden jackets), and from chic Italian labels: Fabiana Filippi, Santoni, Gran Sasso and Eleventy among them. Those seeking the mega brands should give Vietti a look-in for curated pieces from Dior, Prada and Comme des Garçons. Zermatt Selection is a boutique-cum-gallery and the vision of architect and designer Heinz Julen, where fans can browse his Vernissage alpine-inspired chandeliers and score local merch like Chez Vrony cups and beanies. For the more adrenaline-inclined, Julen Sport off the main stretch is a multi-level mecca for the best alpine sporting kit.
Do
The Matterhorn is in good company – 38 peaks in the surrounding area boast elevations over 4,000m – and Zermatt attracts both winter and summer alpine enthusiasts. Summertime promises more than 400km of marked hiking trails while skiing and snowboarding is on tap all year round, thanks to the Theodul Glacier and its 21km of pistes. Winter hikers and snowshoe trekkers equally have plenty of trail to traverse. Adventure specialists Zermatters is the best outfitter for all manner of alpine tours, from heli skiing to snowshoe hiking, or opt for the exhilarating gorge via ferrata, complete with abseiling and Himalayan bridges.
Stay
There’s no shortage of five-star hotels right in the heart of town. Zermatterhof and Mont Cervin offer grand, palace-style accommodation, the latter collecting you from the station in a horse-drawn carriage. The Omnia is the final world in modern, alpine chic, while further afield with unobstructed views of the Matterhorn are the five-star Cervo boutique hotel overlooking the village, or the gorgeous ski-in-ski-out Riffelalp Resort, accessible by a 15-minute ride on the charming Gornergrat Bahn. History buffs should make a beeline for Monte Rosa, Zermatt’s first hotel and homage to Edward Whymper, who stayed at the property before his historic ascent in 1865. For something more hip and urban, à la lobby DJs and informal lounges, Schweizerhof is the vibe, while Zermama is perfectly located across the Sunnegga-Rothorn funicular lift, and is just as its name suggests: chilled, approachable and family-style.
Ming Liu is a London-based luxury and lifestyle writer who contributes to the Financial Times, HTSI and The New York Times, as well as Vanity Fair, Tatler and British Vogue
