Melbourne is one of those confusing cities where, at first glance, you don’t really understand why everyone loves it so much. It can’t compete with Sydney’s bikini-swathed beaches or the glistening lakes of Tasmania. There are no fiercely dense forests like those of Queensland’s Daintree and no swampy, crocodile-filled waterways that make the Northern Territory so thrilling.
But it does have its perks. It produces some of the best art, music, restaurants, coffee, bakeries and wines in Australia. There’s gobsmackingly good eating and drinking, a decentralised creative scene and a growing awareness of Indigenous culture. Most of which you’ll find in the north of the city – and in our guide below.
Stay
The StandardX in Fitzroy opened in August 2024 – the first Standard property to land on Australian soil. Cosy rooms overlook the (hopefully) blue skies and the whole place is lush, lively and design oriented. You’re guaranteed good sleep, great service, staff with solid advice, lots of red detailing and a rooftop bar. Location is key in Melbourne and since it’s in the heart of Fitzroy, pretty much everything is around the corner. There’s no shortage of bars, restaurants and things to do.
Eat early
Melbourne is famed for its coffee. And suburbs such as Carlton, Fitzroy and Northcote do it really well. A classic option is a coffee and petite pastry at Brunetti, a true Melbourne icon with a big room, nostalgic attitude and straight-up, old-school decor. If you prefer a bakery, Akimbo has some of the best bread and pastries you’ll find in the city – you’re close when you can smell the sourdough. Get in early, snatch a cinnamon bun and head to All Nations Park in Northcote to eat in a thicket of green.
If you’re in the mood for a bigger breakfast, head to Sydney Road and take a seat at Walrus – and if it’s full, grab a stool under the awning outside. Walrus brings a relaxed energy, blueberry pancakes and cheeseburgers that pair excellently with a couple of chilled Modelos or milkshakes. It’s the kind of place that disposes of pretension, serves filter coffee, squeezes friends and squabbling families between booths, and listens to Led Zeppelin.
Do
Melbourne is one of those “creative cities” that not only has a budding art scene, but a network of galleries and creative spaces that bolster and engage with the community through art. Since 1985, the not-for-profit gallery Gertrude Contemporary has supported many artists, and even hosts 16 subsidised non-residential studios. It’s a Melbourne institution, a goldmine for collectors, a weekly gallery stop for locals and a hotspot for young artists.
Further west is Sydney Road, where you’ll find Oddaný Gallery, an inclusive, artist-run space in the heart of Brunswick. It often puts on gigs in the church next door and the gallery has a warehouse space that turns into a performing arts venue for a variety of music, drawing and writing workshops and other creative endeavours.
Shop
Shopping is a big part of being in Melbourne – especially in the north, where people obsessively flood thrift stores (or “op-shops”, as they call them), some sorting through endless racks at the Salvos and Vinnies stores across the city, while others hit curated spots such as Goodbyes and Bruce.
When you’ve had your fill of clothes, head to the bookshops. Fully Booked in Preston is a favourite (I’ve been going since I could only reach the third shelf), while over in Carlton is Readings, an independent Aussie bookshop where you’ll find everything organised exceptionally well. They’re big supporters of Australian writers – a great stop after coffee at Brunetti.
Eat later
It’s hard to beat Carnation Canteen when you walk into the sound of searing sole behind the kitchen, the glow of the pink marble bartop and try the cooking from chef Audrey Shaw, who presents dishes far greater than the sum of their ingredients. You can tell Shaw has hunted down the best olives, sourced the freshest fish and treated each radish like a bitter-soft ruby. The dishes have so much composure, they could balance on a sturgeon’s egg. Wines are dignified and poured by sommeliers who know their stuff.
Drink
End the night with a drink at Bar Olo, High Note, Joe’s Shoe Store or Hope St Radio – the big courtyard at Hope St almost feels like a house party with no parents. The staff bring the energy and the place is always full. It’s a great venue to wrap things up – and you’re not far from The StandardX, which helps.
Billy De Luca is a freelance writer, editor and painter. De Luca’s focus is in the arts and culture spheres, contributing to publications including The Sydney Morning Herald, TimeOut, The Travel Almanac and Monster Children magazines
