The verdant slopes of La Concha, part of the Sierra Blanca, loom large over the bay of Marbella. It forms the most dramatic of backdrops: the shell-like mountain, richly carpeted in bottle-green fauna, is speckled with vast chestnut, cherry and olive groves which cling precariously to the curvature of its slopes. Its 1,200m elevation is what gives Marbella its unique microclimate.
The vast majority of tourists didn’t start to descend on this corner of the Costa de Sol until the mid-’50s, with the arrival of influential visitors such as German Prince Alfonso de Hohenlohe-Langenburg, who constructed the Marbella Club Hotel. This would go on to host the glitterati and put Marbella well and truly on the jet set map: Audrey Hepburn, Cary Grant, Grace Kelly, Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot have all sashayed through in their time, solidifying its reputation as a playground for the rich and famous.
A plethora of boutique hotels and a buzzing restaurant scene tempt travellers to venture beyond the beach to Marbella’s Old Town, which positively brims with charm: characterised by a maze of narrow cobbled streets, white-washed houses and ornately tiled churches. If you squint for a moment amid all the bougainvillaea, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a scaled-down version of Colombia’s vibrant Cartagena de Indias.
Stay
Check in to the emblematic five-star El Fuerte Marbella, a stylish 1950s hotel which has undergone a seriously smart makeover courtesy of Chilean design guru Jaime Beriestain Studio. Earthy-toned interiors draw inspiration from grand Andalusian palaces and fincas, incorporating hand-painted ceramics, clay floors and exquisite wood carvings. It’s an impressive edifice almost as high as the surrounding soaring palms. Poolside umbrellas are a symphony of burgundy and beige candy-striped perfection, a glamorous nod to the hotel’s golden era with an eye-popping aqua pool as its centrepiece.
With its distinctive curved-corner geometry, the four-star Lima Hotel, is another design-conscious property from the 1960s that’s also on the fringes of the Old Town.
Eat
For a truly Spanish breakfast experience, head to Churrería Marbella in Plaza de la Victoria. You can sit outside in its shady square and chow down on plates of sugar-laden churros, chased down with a variety of freshly squeezed juices. Situated on an otherwise inconspicuous corner, and rather dwarfed by the towering apartment blocks surrounding it, old school La Casita is another great spot for breakfast, which has been around since 1975 – frequented and adored by true Marbellans.
A great place for both breakfast and lunch is Bar Fiesta in the Municipal Market on Calle Jacinto Benavente. Its shredded beef and pork sandwiches served in a mollete, a typical Andaluz soft bread roll, are the stuff of legend. For the more adventurous, the bar will happily prepare anything purchased from within the market on their grill. It also has excellent seafood options and great wine. Both places are family-run and over thirty years old.
Picturesque Calle Caballeros, with its arched walkway, makes for a pleasant pre-dinner stroll, before deciding which eatery catches your eye: Taberna La Niña del Pisto, situated in one of the most picturesque alleyways of the old town, is where locals devour dishes from neighbouring Córdoba (namely Salmorejo gazpacho and flamenquines – sort of deep-fried pork, ham and cheese rolls). Directly opposite is Bar El Estrecho, an emblematic locale with a charming interior, that’s stood proudly in this spot since 1954: serving exquisite tapas that’s tempted the jet set in its time and continues to do so.
The street is so intimate and narrow that two people would struggle to squeeze past each other. For Asian fixes, beat a path to Ta-Kumi, for sophisticated sushi and Japanese fare; or try family-run Genji Sushi Bar. El Fuerte Marbella’s very own Soleo, benefactor of a chic new makeover courtesy of interior designer Isabel López Vilalta – of El Celler Can Roca fame – offers a seafood-centric beachfront dining experience where you can feast on culinary delights such as divine wafer-thin fried shrimp omelettes, sauteed Carril clams from Galicia and fresh Andalusian-style squid.
Drink
For the best coffee fix, head to Kafein Coffee & Kitchen. D’Oliva offers wine and olive oil tastings with very knowledgeable and friendly staff. Subtil Wine Bar, in the heart of Elviria, is a hidden gem of a wine lover’s paradise. For stylish cocktails and people watching aplenty, head to the rooftop bar at Linda Boutique Hotel, Calle Ancha.
For on the hoof tapas, it has to be Bar Guerra, while the azulejos-tiled Taberna Casa Blanca is another local favourite tapas haunt. Stylish cider house with couch seating it may be, but the wine list at PACA Sidreria Tapas is exceptional, with over 30 wines available by the glass, while G-Wine is big on locally sourced labels from Malaga and Ronda.
Shop
Fabulous retail opportunities abound in the old town; a wealth of indie boutiques selling floaty boho dresses, handbags and ceramics. For the chicest line of espadrilles for both sexes (including super-cool men’s jute-soled suede numbers) check out Tony Pons. Chic Vintage is a goldmine of designer labels and pre-owned luxury, with all items stringently verified for their authenticity and quality.
The Old Town’s ceramics game is particularly strong. Pick of the bunch Ana Ortiz’s creations are inspired by traditional pottery and the captivating Eastern philosophy of wabi sabi, which embraces imperfections. Be sure to plunder the rails of second-hand store JOAN by Cudeca, close to the Dalí figurines. And if that’s not enough, jump in an Uber and head to Parque Comercial La Cañada shopping mall, purportedly the most-visited place in Spain after the Alhambra in Granada.
Do
The focal point of the Old Town, Plaza de los Naranjos – awash with fragrant orange trees whose blossoms’ heavenly scent permeates the air – was established in 1485 after the Christian reconquest of the city from the Moors. Pops of vibrant cerise emanate from wall-mounted floral displays at the base of the hill as they snake towards Calle Ancha – leading up to the 16th-century diamond-patterned domes of Ermita del Santo Cristo, part of the former Franciscan Convent.
Heading back towards the promenade, don’t miss a stroll through the tranquil oasis that’s Parque de la Alameda, styled rather like Sevilla’s Parque María de Luisa but in miniature form, centred around the Fuente Virgen del Rocío – a fountain depicting the local pilgrimage tradition.
Esculturas de Dalí (Salvador Dalí Statues)
Continuing your stroll towards the Golden Mile, take in the open-air museum that’s Marbella’s personal collection of Salvador Dalí statues on Avenida del Mar – offering a rare opportunity to engage directly with the work of one of the 20th century’s most iconic artists.
It’s well worth popping your head around the door at Museo del Grabado (Museum of Contemporary Spanish Engraving), Calle Hospital Bazán. The collection includes more than four thousand prints, encompassing all kinds of design trends, showcasing the most significant creatives of the contemporary Spanish art scene. It’s free to enter, plus it’s housed within a gorgeous, converted Gothic-Renaissance hospital.
Take in a game at Marbella FC, the club Manchester United’s Brazilian international Casemiro has recently bought into. They currently ply their trade at Banús Football Center in neighbouring Puerto Banús, while their new 10,000-capacity stadium is being built on the site of former ground, Estadio Lorenzo Cuevas. While the Blanquillos still fight it out in Primera Federación, the third tier of Spanish football, MFC have ambitions to make it to the higher echelons of La Liga under their #letsdreambig hashtag.
Lee Osborne is an experienced traveller to the Iberian Peninsula and a co-founder of Secret Trips.
