For a more sustainable, stress-free journey north of the border, I can’t recommend the Caledonian Sleeper train enough. It’s beyond relaxing: while away half an hour in the Guest Lounge before the “journey of a nighttime” departs the curvature of London’s Euston rails at 8:30pm. You can choose to dine onboard with vernacular delights such as Macsween’s haggis, neeps and tatties with a whisky sauce or Lammermuir smoked cheddar mac and cheese with an optional garlic crumb; even imbibe a half-bottle of cru classé that will help send you on your way – or simply grab an early night cocooned comfortably in the cosy confines of your cabin.
As you tear back the curtain at dawn, and squint at the serene brightness of a Highland landscape framed through the dark vestibule of the cabin window, you’ll watch in awe as a rich tapestry of russet hues unveils itself. The whole experience genuinely evokes a sense of excitement in travel I’d not felt in a long time.
Day 1 Inverness
Base yourself at the divine Ness Walk, a swanky five-star river-facing property in the leafy suburb of Ballifeary, a 15-minute stroll from downtown Inverness. You’re in luck if your stay happens to coincide with one of their renowned Torrish Supper Clubs – events that tap into the hotel’s love of storytelling, taking place in the plush surrounds of its restaurant (recent examples include a food and wine-matching masterclass with South African winemaker Peter-Allan Finlayson).
Another overnight option is The Glen Mhor Hotel on the opposite bank of the river, comprising 11 beautifully preserved Victorian townhouses and apartments. Both properties facilitate stops for a riverside caffeine fix at The Ness Walk Kiosk, or if you’re in the centre of town head to Milk Bar. For brunch, check out XOKO, an independent café on Bridge Street and purveyor of exceptional pastries. You really are spoilt for choice for lunch spots in a city whose food credentials continue an upwards trajectory.
While Bonny Prince Charlie-inspired Encore is a good bet for hearty meat and fish, be sure to book a table at neighbouring Rocpool, for refined locally sourced, modern Scottish gourmet cuisine that brings the warmth of the Med to the cooler climes of the north. The scallops are sensational. If you’re in a hurry, descend upon the plethora of food stalls at The Victorian Market. Black Isle Bar & Rooms is a great spot for a relaxed dinner where locals chow down on stone-baked pizza and work their way through 26 taps of artisanal craft beer. You will not regret stopping for a nightcap at MacGregor’s on Church Street, a legendary live music venue.
Day 2: Beauly and Black Isle
Hop aboard the 8am train out of Inverness, which follows a picturesque path hugging the shores of Beauly Firth – a stunning tidal inlet offering up serene vistas and abundant wildlife. Fifteen minutes later you’ll be in the upmarket village of Beauly. Start your day with a full Scottish and flat white at Corner on the Square, before heading across the road to Campbell’s of Beauly to plunder some of the finest country wear on planet earth. The delightful James Sugden and his wife Nic have worked wonders since they took over the reins of this Highland Tweed House, which counts The King among its esteemed list of clientele.
Don’t miss admiring the silverware and trinkets on offer at Iain Marr Antiques just across the road, a favourite of the visiting fishing, shooting and stalking fraternity when they’re north of the border. Then stop for a light lunch at the local Italian Cafe Biagiotti, run by sister act Flora and Rosie.
You can’t leave this Highland peninsula without incorporating the Black Isle. Hire a vintage sports car from Highland Classic Car Ltd, have it delivered to you in Beauly and the isle is your oyster – anything from a 1972 Triumph Stag to a 1973 MGB GT. First stop should be the award-winning Bad Girl Bakery, in neighbouring Muir of Ord, whose cakes, savoury bakes and sandwiches are the stuff of legend. And there’s a rather quirky self-service farm shop in Mulbuie, Black Isle Dairy, which operates an honesty box where dairy products are all cleverly dispensed from on-site vending machines.
Make a pit stop at Black Isle Brewing Co, for some thirst-quenching pale ales – its Halo series of alcohol-free beers, all crafted with organic ingredients mean your named driver doesn’t miss out on the fun. On the way back, swing by The Singleton’s Glen Ord distillery, a seriously smart symphony of aqua and copper proportions, notable as the only remaining single-malt scotch whisky distillery on the Black Isle.
Day 3 Inverness
Just across the river from Ness Walk lies brewstillery Uile-bheist (pronounced “ewl-uh-vesht”, Gaelic for monster), offers a fascinating insight into the day-to-day running of a modern, sustainable brewery-distillery business. While their own whisky is currently off limits (it’s still ageing gracefully in-barrel) they have plentiful drams from across Caledonia alongside a great selection of craft beers, while knowledgeable guides regale you with tales of Scottish legend, which have inspired their mythical illustrative branding, courtesy of Melbourne-based designer Ken Taylor.
Rebel Row is a playful nod to London’s sartorial playground, Savile Row. Owner Clare Campbell is on a mission to bring tartan milling back to the Highlands. ‘We love to show how it really is possible to make cool, ethical fabric and clothing, designed in an infinitely zero-waste way that can be affordable.’ Just a five-minute stroll down the hill and you’re at The Mustard Seed Restaurant, a favoured lunch spot with local Invernessians, close to the city’s Greig Street footbridge. A split-level restaurant housed within a converted church creates a wonderful ambience and the addition of a terrace on the top floor allows alfresco dining in warmer months. Feast on the likes of cullen skink tart and Millers of Speyside seared 28-day aged rump steak.
While Leakey’s is Scotland’s largest second-hand bookshop, The Walrus & Corkscrew is the newest kid in town, a snug little wine bar serving fabulous vinous offerings alongside cheeseboards and meat platters. Dreamy nightcaps await at The Malt Room, Inverness’s first dedicated whisky bar, so cosy it literally feels like you’re stepping into someone’s front room.
Catch a cab back to Kingsmills Hotel (as it’s all uphill from here), where you’ll sleep like a baby. Nestled amid beautifully landscaped gardens and overlooking Inverness Golf Club, the property lends a country club vibe despite only being minutes from the city centre. An Talla – just outside Inverness on the Caledonian Canal (which leads to Loch Ness) promotes a shop local, support local ethos where well-known brands sit alongside those less familiar food and drink hubs. No trip to Inverness would be complete without a boat trip on Scotland’s second largest loch: luckily Loch Ness by Jacobite has your back.
Lee Osborne is a co-founder of Secret Trips
