Days 1-2: exploring Svolvær
Bodø Airport is the nearest international airport to the Lofoten, and once there you can get an internal flight to Leknes or Svolvær and pick up your ride, preferably a decent SUV. If you’re starting in the latter, then you’ll want to spend a couple of days hiking here. It’s the capital city of the archipelago and a great place to stock up on things for your journey but it’s also home to some incredible hikes. The boat trip cruise to Trollfjord is a must, too. The picturesque village of Kabelvåg is a short drive away and is home to the Lofoten Museum, aquarium, Espolin Gallery and the charming Lofoten Cathedral. Check yourself into the Thon Hotel Svolvær, which opened in 2021. It’s perched right on the harbour front, is super stylish and has, hands down, the best breakfast in Svolvær.
Day 3: drive to Henningsvær
If you thought the Lofoten were too remote to be cool, then the fishing village of Henningsvær will put you right. It’s like the Shoreditch of the archipelago – you’ll find some of the best coffee here at a place called Trevarefabrikken, a multipurpose cafe-restaurant-bar-hotel-sauna-yoga centre (it’s the best place to stay on the island). Henningsvær is also home to what must be the world’s most remote international art gallery, the so-called Kaviar Factory, which is well worth a visit.
Days 4-5: Ballstad
Ballstad remains one of Lofoten’s biggest active fishing villages and is thus a great place to explore the Norwegian Sea. There are several small islands and stunning fjords you can take trips to but if you want to get more active, you can also rent a kayak or SUP from the harbour or book a fishing trip. The fish oil factory of Möllers Tran (founded in 1852) in Ballstad is a really interesting place too, even if it’s just to stock up on omega-3s! Lofoten Food Studio is the place to eat while you’re here. Founder and head chef Roy-Magne Berglund creates sumptuously fresh cuisine like you wouldn’t imagine. Booking ahead is absolutely essential. While you’re in Ballstad, a great afternoon trip is to Haukland Beach, which Lonely Planet ranked as the best in Europe. It’s a stunning sweeping cove of pearly white sand and you can get some amazing views of it from the surrounding hills.
Day 6: Moskenes
Although all of the Lofoten Islands boast dramatic landscapes, Moskenes probably takes the gold medal. Here, the soaring mountains plunge precipitously into the sea. Hiking Reinebringen and Bunesstranda is a must, as is a stay in the village of Reine, one of the most picturesque of all the islands. Check into the boutique of Holmen in Sørvågen village, which is absolutely stunning in every way, especially the restaurant ‘Kitchen On The Edge Of The World’, which is a culinary adventure. From Moskenes, you can also visit the village with the shortest name in the world – Å.
Day 7: Kvitnes
Almost home time but we would be remiss not to point you to the incredible restaurant that is Kvitnes for dinner. It’s just north of Svolvær and you can stay overnight and be served breakfast the following morning so no need to rush things. Dinner is a tasting menu, a veritable smörgåsbord of culinary brilliance. Virtually all of the ingredients are harvested from the farm or foraged locally. It’s an absolute treat and a great way to wrap up a monumental week in the Lofoten.
Ryan Thompson is a UK-based menswear and lifestyle writer, whose work has appeared in, among others, the Financial Times, Mr Porter, The Rake and Ape to Gentleman
