Accra is the beating heart of Ghana: a thrilling mix of old-world charm and the pulse of contemporary Africa. From historic landmarks to funky nightclubs and luxurious beaches (with laid-back beach clubs), Accra has it all.
But first things first: when planning your trip, make sure to secure your visa well in advance. The process can take time, so it’s wise to contact the Ghana High Commission early. Oh, and a yellow fever vaccination – with proof. And pack those malaria pills. All sorted? Dive in.
If money’s no object, start your journey at the Kempinski Hotel Gold Coast City. Something of a game-changer for the city’s hospitality scene when it opened in the business district in 2015, this dazzling five-star hotel offers everything from spacious living areas with rainfall showers and pillow menus to a top-of-the-range spa and 25-metre outdoor pool surrounded by sleek cabanas. Here, you’ll find many of Accra’s movers and shakers sipping cocktails at the hotel’s Gallery Bar, as the city hums below.
Bags unpacked, and suitably refreshed, pay a visit to Makola Market – a chaotic labyrinth of stalls, buzzing with colour, sound and infectious energy. From handwoven fabrics to fresh fruit and artisan goods, you’ll find treasures around every corner. As they say, getting lost here is part of the fun. On Saturdays, Labone Green Market is another great place to pick up organic produce, handmade crafts and local specialties. As you wander, be sure to offer a friendly “hello” (learn a few phrases in local languages such as Twi, as not everyone speaks English) – and mindfully carry cash, as not everyone accepts cards, especially Uber and Bolt. Tip: carry a copy of your passport wherever you go, as police stops are common.
Fancy a bit of culture? Pop over to the Goethe-Institut or the Alliance Française d’Accra, where the city’s French and Ghanaian influences blend seamlessly, with performances, movie screenings and live concerts – and Accra is a pull for music lovers. For the best of live jazz, check out +233 Jazz Bar & Grill, while Ghana’s love affair with reggae is on full display at the JamRock Restaurant and Grill, with live music every Friday night. For a more laid-back evening, enjoy a live music session at Afrikiko, where you can listen to Afrobeat legends.
Elsewhere, get creative with a pottery session at Happy Art Academy, pick up some fabrics at Eunnan Fabrics, or visit La Maison – a curated haven of design and style, offering an eclectic mix of home accessories, furnishings, art and African-inspired decor.
There’s a rich culinary scene here too, a fusion of local staples and more global cuisine. Try authentic Ghanaian dishes such as jollof rice and fufu at Buka Restaurant; seafood and spicy stews at 805 Restaurant or the hidden gem that is Chez Afrique, in East Legon, serving traditional African fare. The 24/7 Breakfast to Breakfast is famous in these parts for its breakfast classics, including pancakes. And for an upscale dining experience, head directly to Santoku Restaurant & Bar for exquisite Japanese cuisine. Inspired by Nobu, it serves sushi, teppanyaki – and has an exceptional sake bar. Incidentally, when in Ghana, use your right hand for eating (also when greeting others), as the left hand is considered impolite. And stick to boiled or filtered water.
One thing about this place – it knows how to party. Whether it’s a late-night dance at Kruna The Club nightclub, or a pub crawl through Jamestown, the city’s nightlife scene is electric. Try Twist – one of Accra’s oldest clubs. Alternatively, if you’ve a head for heights, try Skybar 25: perched atop the Alto Tower, in the Villagio Vista complex, this rooftop bar – atop the tallest building in Ghana – offers panoramic views of the city, along with a restaurant and rooftop pool. You may need to exercise patience here as the service can be on the slow side (like Accra’s wifi speeds and the traffic) – but that view is worth it. Inside tip: skip the food, be prepared to splurge and go straight for the cocktails.
Need to decompress, the morning after? Head for the laid-back Sandbox Beach Club on the coast, and enjoy some seafood rice, pork ribs and the view. Or walk it off with a Jamestown Walking Tour – a humbling and fascinating trip through Accra’s oldest suburb, exploring colonial sites and family homes, and the Fisherman’s Village. Meanwhile, just an hour outside the city, the Aburi Botanical Gardens offers a serene escape.
So, get your visa in order, don’t forget the mozzie tablets – and get ready to explore all this dynamic city has to offer.
Lysanne Currie is editor-in-chief of Meet the Leader. She also writes for Robb Report, Diplomat, Guardian, Influence, Tempus and Investor
