What to pack: Marrakech

Marrakech is truly a tale of two cities: the clamour of the close-quartered souk and the glamour of the wide-open esplanades of the new town. For the former, you want to be street-smart, ready to barter. You need boots made for walking, getting lost, discovering dainty little riads behind hidden doorways. You need sunglasses packed for open-air dining in the Jemaa, where the kebabs sizzle on the grill, charmers summon black cobras from baskets, and the atmosphere buzzes and crackles. For the latter, you need glad-rags, the kind of outfit that won’t look out of place on the terrace at La Mamounia, which should be visited at dusk, when the air is heavy with jasmine and birdsong, and you can sit in the gloaming with a ruinously expensive but eye-wateringly vast negroni and pretend you’re staying there.