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Masha Rener: where to eat in Umbria

Masha Rener grew up in a restaurant deep in the Umbrian countryside, where she learned the skills that have made her London’s princess of pasta. These days, she’s mostly to be found at the pass of one of the branches of the capital’s beloved Lina Stores, the Italian delicatessens and restaurants which have been a London haven for Italian food lovers since 1944. She talked to us about where to eat in her home region.

Ristoro in Campagna

This place has mastered the simplicity of small things, like eating on a terrace surrounded by peacocks, chickens and cats. This “ristoro” serves typical bread from Gubbio, “la torta”, that can be filled with cured meat and cheese, alongside regional recipes prepared with local ingredients. The restaurant is half an hour north of Perugia in the countryside, surrounded by hills. 

Loc. Pieve d’Agnano 48 Gubbio

Umbria

Trattoria Lea

This restaurant in Città di Castello, which opened over 40 years ago, is a must for truffle and mushroom lovers. Cristiano and Marco are two brothers who have taken over the restaurant from their parents, and now source the best ingredients of the local produce with obsessive attention. From the fresh pasta to the desserts, everything is homemade and absolutely delicious. 

Corso Cavour 8F, Città di Castello; +39 075 852 1678

Osteria Rosso Di Sera

This restaurant is famous for its incredible location, right on the eastern shore of Lake Trasimeno, perfect for splendid sunsets. The cuisine is local but reimagined with attention and care, and it also serves tasty street food options to eat by the lake. The host, Giulio, is very welcoming and treats you like family. He is always on hand to recommend the right wine from its very well-stocked cellar.

Via F.lli Papini, 81 San Feliciano

Il Caldaro

Il Caldaro

This old farmhouse has been tastefully restored with copper tables, leather armchairs and an old stone fireplace. Outside, there’s a century-old oak tree with panoramic views. It’s a place where you can celebrate a special occasion with a fine dining menu that respects and reflects the best of Italian and Umbrian cooking. But it also has a wood oven where they make pizza. Remember to reserve a table, it gets very busy.  

Str. la Bruna 32, La Bruna Perugia

Wang

It is difficult to find good international cuisine in Umbria and this is why I recommend this stop in the heart of the city of Perugia. Wang is a fantastic Chinese restaurant that gets very busy during peak hours. I recommend ordering a couple of the dumplings to go and perhaps walking a few hundred metres down the road to enjoy them in the nearby tempietto park [Parco Sant’Angelo], which offers stunning views over the city.

Corso Garibaldi 15, Perugia; +39 075 572 4309

To try Masha’s food, head to Lina Stores in Soho, Clapham, South Kensington, King’s Cross, Marylebone or the City; linastores.co.uk

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