Top tables: Les Parisiens, Paris

On the top floor of what is now the Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain hotel in Paris, the writer James Joyce composed part of his novel Ulysses in the 1920s. It follows then that the brand-new hotel’s restaurant draws on one of the author’s other books, Dubliners, and, in an elegant homage, it’s called Les Parisiens

The restaurant, on the corner of a typical ​​Haussmann building, is within walking distance of many of Joyce’s frequent haunts and, indeed, many of Paris’s literary and artistic landmarks. It feels every bit the quintessential modern Parisian restaurant, with a Mid-Century-inspired decor overseen by designer Didier Benderli. The intention was to make this as much a neighbourhood favourite as it is a place for hotel guests to dine, with a menu devised by Michelin-starred chef Thibault Sombardier, a champion of haute bistronomie – exceptional food in a friendly and unfussy atmosphere. Sombardier appeared on the French version of the TV show Top Chef and is revered throughout the city. His approach combines flavours from his childhood homes in Burgundy and Beaujolais and focuses on seasonal produce, with many menu items changing throughout the year. 

There are snail ravioli in a creamy garlic broth – an interesting (and delicious) alternative to the typical escargots found in other local spots; a classic vol-au-vent; veal sweetbreads (a standout dish from the menu) and roasted farm poultry fillet. The dessert offering includes dishes such assoufflé, millefeuilleand chocolate mousse and, while they may be French menu stalwarts, they are crafted as mindfully as any new-fangled, high-end pudding. 

If you are looking for excellent, uncomplicated French cuisine in a warm atmosphere, then Les Parisiens in Paris is the place. 

1 Rue du Pré aux Clercs, 75007 Paris; en.pavillon-faubourg-saint-germain.com/restaurant-les-parisiens

Amy Miles is a London-based editor and writer at Brummell magazine

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