Top tables: Geranium, Copenhagen

Geranium was the first restaurant in Denmark to be awarded three Michelin stars. In 2009, it was listed in The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Now, it’s number one

Located on the eighth floor of Denmark’s national football stadium, this multi-space venue boasts an impressive vantage point of the pitch, as well as sublime, panoramic views over central Copenhagen’s Fælledparken (Common Gardens). Through full-length windows, patrons can watch the seasons dressing the tree canopy, park and distant copper roofscape. The fine-dining heights Geranium has achieved owe a great deal to these elevated vistas. For the restaurant offers a unique, sensory experience that takes about three-and-a-half hours, the main element of which is its meat-free tasting menu, which evolves with the changing seasons. 

With a focus on seafood, it usually includes around 20 servings brought to the table in succession. Conceived by revered head chef Rasmus Kofoed, the dishes are highly detailed and creatively evoke what elements of nature guests can observe outside. The extraordinary complexity of their flavours is rivalled only by the intricate designs many have. You’d have a hard time arguing that some don’t constitute visual art in their own right.

The restaurant features open fires, hand-painted flowers climbing elegantly down the walls, and an award-winning wine cellar (for want of a better word). In the main dining area and the Inspiration Kitchen, where Kofoed concocts his new ideas, open kitchens dissolve the boundary between chefs and g uests, enhancing the restaurant’s relaxed yet professional atmosphere. 

Front of house is handled by award-winning sommelier Søren Ledet, Geranium’s co-owner and wine director. Having worked together for more than 20 years, he and Kofoed have a friendship that is as endearing as the relationships had by all the team. Indeed, now acknowledged as the best, Geranium is one of the most charming restaurants in the world.

Geranium, Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 2100 Copenhagen; geranium.dk

By Nicholas Ross

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