After you’ve visited the Gabinetto Segreto at the Archaeological museum (see Secret Naples), head down the road towards to Cafe Leopoldo. At Leopoldo there is, as there is everywhere in Naples, a dizzying array of desserts, cakes etc on offer but here, uniquely, everything is gluten-free (senza glutine). Even loaves of bread and fresh pasta, which really are rather good. In the country where “grana” is god, this is a rare treat. If you’re feeling generous buy a “caffè sospeso”, a Naples tradition that sees people paying for a coffee in advance for someone who needs it.
Piazza Cavour, P.za Cavour, 78/79
If you’re up early, head to the port of Mergellina where the local fleet of small fishing boats are based. In summer, you might see the odd mega yacht and some beautiful examples of gozzos, the traditional wooden boats. While you’re there, head to Ciro’s, a famous pasticceria and ice-cream shop. Try the almond or pistachio granita with brioche, which may be a Sicilian thing and not really Neapolitan, but it is so very good. Grab your breakfast and a coffee and perch on the wall across the road for a breakfast of champions.
Ciro Chalet, Via Caracciolo fronte, Via Orazio
In Naples, the streets echo with the hollering calls from the stall holders of the many markets, and the scooters scream past, way too close for comfort. A great place to take it all in is Pescheria Azzurra, a fishmonger and streetside restaurant. Pull up a stool, order some fish and a cold bottle of Falanghina as the locals pop in and out to choose their fish for dinner.
Pescheria Azzurra, Via Portamedina, 3/4 5